1985 150etlk automatic oil pump problem

[99yam40]

if the yellow is lit I believe it stops automatic transfer of oil , only allows manual transfer

[rodbolt17]

if the yellow lamp is lit there will be NO automatic transfer.
manual will still work.

[Lookingfortheknowhow]

Alright I'll just put more in there when dads not around and try it again

[rodbolt17]

hate to see ya sneak.
simply use a paper clip .
at the remote tank connector use a paper clip slipped into the wire end of the connector.
jump black to black/red.
light will go green and auto transfer is allowed by jumping black to brown at the engine.

[Lookingfortheknowhow]

Haha well I didn't read this until after I did sneak, but he didn't notice, but jumping the wires still didn't run the pump. Dad did say something about it being a 2 speed pump and that the float switch when it worked was slower than the emergency switch, but he also said he and a mechinic in town argued about it so he doesn't know if he's right, so maybe it's the slow speed part of the transfer pump that's broken?

[rodbolt17]

its a single speed pump.
12V is supplied any time the key is on.
ground path is via the blue wire back to the oil control module,or manual switch.
either ground runs the pump.
on your oil control module, is there a green white wire that goes to the CDI box on the stbd side?

[Lookingfortheknowhow]

Well I could look but I don't know what a cdi box is or what the stbd side is but ill see if I can't look it up on the internet

[rodbolt17]

remember no SENSORS, 3 switchs in the engine tank.
1 switch in the remote tank.
engine tank float all the way up, closes SW1 and commands transfe pump off.

engine tank float mid way down,SW2 closes and commands transfer pump on.

engine tank float all the way down,2nd transfer pump on command,RPM reduction command,audible alarm command and redlamp command.

remote tank switch,SWB.
tank over 2qts or so to full and its closed, green lamp command and automatic transfer is allowed.

tank less than about 2qts and its open,yellow lamp command and automatic transfer WILL NOT occur but manual will still work.

at key on 12V positive is on the brown wire at the remote tank to engine ground.
the operating ground path is the remote tank blue wire.
follow it back and its spliced inside the oil control module.

for automatic transfer the oil control module toggles the ground based on commands from SW1 and SW2.(engine tank switches)

manual simply takes it directly to ground via the manual switch.

[Lookingfortheknowhow]

Thanks rodbolt I'll work on it Tuesday and let you know what happens.

[Lookingfortheknowhow]

Alright so with a multimeter on volts dc with the key on the engine oil tank float switch red wire-12 volts black wire-12 volts brown wire- nothing white wire- nothing, to the swb red wire- 12 volts brown wire-12 volts white wire-12 volts black wire- nothing, my dad had the engine rebuilt because the automatic transfer pump wasn't working and he didn't want to listen to the buzzer so he unplugged it( retarded I know) and then forgot to refill the oil tank and burnt up the engine, so maybe there's some bad wiring now?

[rodbolt17]

your testing method is whack.

I dont think your quite getting what goes on with the switches in the remote tank and engine tank.
everything on the system operates on a ground path.
only thing that occurs due to loss of a ground path is yellow lamp on.

voltage is simply a measure of electrical pressure.
current cannot flow in an incomplete circuit.
current is what makes a device work.

[Lookingfortheknowhow]

Alright well sorry about that I guess I didn't realize that switch only grounded because I was doing red wire on multimeter to specified colored wire and black directly to ground on the engine like a bolt or something I don't remember...so how would I test it without directly grounding it?

[rodbolt17]

on the switch, use a DVM(digital volt meter) set it on the continuity setting.
with the switch float all the way uo you should have continuity between white and black,switch float in the center between brown and black.
switch float all the way down,red to black.
using the continuity setting impress's more voltage in the meter leads.
voltage from the meter not the engine.

[Lookingfortheknowhow]

Alright all the of that checks out the switch has continuity in all 3 positions

[Lookingfortheknowhow]

So I don't know what else to check if the switch works and the pump works?