Signal Function

[nola0000]

Anybody knows how the signal for the "low oil level warning" to the multifunction gauge functions on a 2001 Yamaha 150 ox66?

I want to dump my dying Yamaha "LCD Marine Meter"(tach/trim/oil warning) for an aftermarket analog setup. I got the tach and trim gauge but dont have anything to replace the low oil level warning.

Was thinking about wiring up 3 LED lights, a green for full, an orange for halfway and a red for empty. Is the green/white stripe wire the correct wire to use and if so what is its function for displaying the warning in 3 stages? Voltage or resistance maybe? I see from my manual that the oil level sensor in the oil tank uses continuity to different wires but I think it might change when it gets to the ECU for the gauge input.

[CatCam]

Why bother - you can pick up a used multi-function meter on flea-bay for relatively cheap. The effort put into trying to "rig" something isn't worth the time and effort. Plug and Play is a beautiful thing!!

[nola0000]

Because this
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...psec35c555.jpg

looks a whole lot better than this
http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps8858d1c3.jpg

[nola0000]

Really? Nobody out there in this wide world knows the answer to this question?

[nola0000]

Nevermind. I figured it out myself. Hooked it up. Works great.

[rodbolt17]

when the green is low(grounded by the switch SWB, the indicate is green.
when the low is taken away(high) the green is off and thge yellow illuminates.
when SW3 closes(engine tank switch) the red is illuminated.
can you post how you got the yellow lamp to work?

[nola0000]

I didnt really follow your post. Im terrible with acronyms.

What do you mean "when the green is low"?

What is "switch swb"?

What do you mean "when low is taken away"?

I think what youre talking about is what I originally tried to figure out but I knew I would run into problems for the middle indicate light whether it was voltage, resistance, continuity or whatever.

I tried to measure off the green/white and green/red wire while lifting the oil tank sensor in and out of the tank and couldnt get any reading of any kind(voltage/ohm/contin.) Not sure why. I did, however, get the warning buzzer to go off.

Because of this confounding situation I decided to pull a single red LED indicator off the black/red wire on my remote oil reservoir tank which did show a 12V signal when I tilted it to make it think there was no oil. Oil in the tank = 0V.

I would still like to know how to use the wire off the main harness from the engine that way I wouldnt have to run a separate cable from the remote oil tank. I hooked it up direct but I havent run the cable yet.

My other concern with that is that I would prefer to be notified when the remote tank is low rather than the little on-engine tank that way Ill know I have to fill up the remote tank and that I have exactly one on-engine tank of oil left to get home with. Is this not how it functions? I really have no idea, this is my first boat and I still havent taken it through a whole tank of oil.

[99yam40]

the switches feed to ground in the oil module, if you do not have them hooked up to it,, it will not operate the pump from remote tank properly

[rodbolt17]

its very simple.
I explained it.
low lights the light on the green/red.
low lights the green indicate on the green.
loss of a low lights the yellow.
the yellow is what your going to have an issue with.
thats why its simply best to replace the tach with the correct part.

[nola0000]

What we have sir is a communication breakdown. Ill take the blame. I have no ability to extrapolate. Thats why Im so wordy. Ill try to edit your last post with what I think I might be hearing, tell me where I missed...

its very simple.
I explained it.
low oil lights the light(voltage) on the green/red wire.
low oil lights the green indicate(LED) on the green wire.
loss of a low oil(full) lights the yellow what? I have no idea, maybe LED? Im lost with whole sentence.
the yellow middle/low oil is what your going to have an issue with.
thats why its simply best to replace the tach with the correct part.

[rodbolt17]

you have to remember, we are getting visual indicates from two sources.
the SWB and the SW3.

SWB remote tank switch, closed it takes the blk/red lead to black(ground).
this low(ground) signal is fed to the tach via the green,sometimes green/white, wire and the tach green illuminates signifying adequate oil for transfer.

SWB open, no switch continuity, the internal tach circuits see a loss of ground.
yellow lamp illuminates. AUTOMATIC transfer is inhibited.

this will also occur if the remote tank connector is unplugged.

SW3 closed,engine tank switch, red,sometimes blue or black red, is taken to ground.
green and yellow are extinguished and the red lamp lights due to a ground path on the tach green/red wire.

IF SWB is still closed,inicates sufficient oil in the remote for transfer, AND SW3 is closed the system assumes either a malfunction OR a primary first time engine tank fill and will turn on the transfer pump for 180 seconds.
and all three lights,bars or arrows flash or blink.
1990 to 95 2.6l v6 use a trim signal as well to allow/dissallow transfer.

[nola0000]

You da man rodbolt! Is there anything you dont know about Yamahas? I mean seriously, the signal function of the oil transfer system of specific year range and engine displacements. Thats ridiculous. No offense but, get a life. Anyhow, I knew you could get through my thick skull and make me understand.

Lets try this...

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps0f078cfe.jpg

Right, wrong, close?

[rodbolt17]

close enough.
dont forget the engine tank also has SW1 and SW2.
all SW 1&2 do is on off 0n off all de dang day long,,, UNTIL.

[nola0000]

I meant SW1, 2 and 3. Thats why its multicolored. Blue/green, Blue/red, Blue/white and Blue/red again.

Ok. So when these switches on the oil tanks go to ground that ground signal is then fed to the CDI. So now what kind of signal does the CDI feed to the Yamaha Tach to tell the Tach to light the proper "low oil" lights?

[rodbolt17]

blue/green and blue/white simply tell the oil control to turn off or on the transfer pump.
thats all they do all de dang day long.
nothing else.
if SW3 closes,low engine tank ;level, blue red goes low and the oil control sets a low on the green/red lead going to the tach,sets RPM reduction and audible on the 10 pin main pink wire.
this pink wire is grounded.
grounds make things work.

SWB,remote tank.
when that switch is closed,circuit grounded, the ground is seen by the oil control and is fed to the tach via the green or green/white and the tach illuminates the green lamp.
when SWB opens or a wire fails, the oil control sees this as low remote tank level and the ground is removed on the green wire and the lamp goes yellow and the automatic transfer is inhibited.

see how simple and easy this circuitry is?