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2003 LZ200TXRB - High /Med Pressure Pmp

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  • #16
    That's the advice I needed, I will go buy the test equipment.
    I need to understand the tests

    (Rodbolt17) "test medium fuel pressure and HP pressure at the same time UNDER load at the failure RPM."
    Is there a procedure (test) in the manual for this test or is it done inline with costume adaptors
    The service manual describes how to test the Pressure Regulator using the Fuel Pressure Gauge and the Mity Vacume on the VST. This test does not seem to be the same test that was mentioned above.

    How is the best way to hook up this test? Where does the fuel pressure get tested, in line?
    Any recomendations
    Last edited by chuckmead; 03-06-2013, 09:17 PM.

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    • #17
      The lift pump you are talking about is the electric fuel pump in the VST ?

      I have found only 4 type of filters/strainers on this motor!
      #1. one element filter before the two low pressure mechanical fuel pumps!
      #2. one filter at the bottom of the electric fuel pump inside the VST!
      #3. Screen filter at the Pressure Regulator!
      #4. Fuel Strainer that is after the VST and before the high pressure system.
      Is there any more screens or filters on this motor?
      Last edited by chuckmead; 03-07-2013, 02:34 AM.

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      • #18
        each injector has a screen and there are two screens inside the HP pump.

        hook the connector in the HP pump pressure sensor.
        should read 2.8-3.2V pink to black at any and all RPMs.
        while monitoring HP sensor V use a medium pressure gauge attached to the schrader valve on the VST.
        should read 50 PSI at all RPMs.
        if the 50 PSI holds and the HP drops then your fighting an issue between the VST outlet and the HP pump.
        if both fall your issue is between the VST outlet and the liquid level in the tank.

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        • #19
          thank you! I needed all that Information
          off for the search hunt fo the test tools.
          I know some tools are junk, Any recommendations on brand names or tool part numbers?
          Last edited by chuckmead; 03-07-2013, 01:30 PM.

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          • #20
            Can I use any Fuel Injection Pump Tester gauge?
            Is there a way to test the voltage without the harness or just get the harness?

            Do you know where I can order or get the:

            1. Fuel Pressure Gauge YB-06766/90890-06786 or equal with the correct fitting for the VST connection?

            2. Test Harness (3 Pin) YB-06769/90890-06769 or equal

            My physical tool search is not working, 3 stores and no go!
            No luck on the internet yet as well.
            Last edited by chuckmead; 03-07-2013, 04:10 PM.

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            • #21
              call the parts here on this site and see what they can do for you

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              • #22
                on the medium pressure rail, the tester uses the same schrader valve size as the standard car or bicyle tube.
                just needs to be able to read to 60psi.
                for a one off use?
                I would slip paper clips between the pink and black wires and tape them to the harness to prevent them from moving and test it.

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                • #23
                  Rodbolt17 - thanks alot for the creative insight!
                  You are literally saving me alot of time and money time! Thanks

                  I will get the standard Fuel Injection Tester kit at the local store that has the standard schrader valve connector, it should have that fitting in it and it reads to 100 psi, if not I will make a fitting.

                  I will make a custom rig for the Harness either by paper clip or stripped wire that will not touch and weave it throught the plug connector and attach it to the meter to read the voltage.
                  thanks

                  After warm up of motor I will run the test at max rpm which will limit out about 2,100 rpm to 3,700 rpm and check if the VST valve holds at 50 lbs and the HP Sensor reads 2.8-3.2V pink to black at any and all RPMs.
                  Last edited by chuckmead; 03-07-2013, 09:12 PM.

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                  • #24
                    Only took 3 or 4 days so far so not sure about time time savings .

                    Make sure to use very small solid stiff wire to work into the back side of plug next to the wire , make sure not to damage the wires insulation while you do it.
                    I have used stick pins before as even the paper clips I had around were too big and difficult to get into there

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                    • #25
                      lol - yes, the 3 to 4 days was the communication on how and what to do,
                      The excecution is only a couple of hours and is deffinitly faster than driving the boat 50 miles to the mechanic and waiting in line for 4 to 6 weeks lay up.

                      Okay, on the solid wire tip, I got it ! run the wire through the insulation to contact the connection,
                      that is better than a flexible strands through the plug connection, thank you very much

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                      • #26
                        I believe You still do not get it,
                        You do not put a hole into the insulation of the wire, slip it between the wire insulation and the rubber plug hole the wire runs through and make connection down inside where the wire and connector are without hurting anything or pick up the adapter to make it easier

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