i am having problems with my oil system. The tank on the motor is not filling when low just sounding the buzzer. the switch on the back of the motor works i have just been flipping it when the buzzer goes off. fill the tank and keep on going but that is getting old. i thought it might be the switch so i replaced it but still nothing. any help would be amazing. it is a 99 150hp ox66
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ox66 oil problems.
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Test oil level sensor on engine oil tank and remote oil tank test wiring going to them.
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with key on engine off, are all three bars lit,center bar lit, all three flashing?
system will do a lot of trouble shooting for you if you let it.
by the fact manual works we just eliminated 99% of the ground path and 100% of the powersupply.
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well i checked the motor sensor, boat tank sensor, and the harness. all checked out. i ohm'd them and then checked voltage. so looks like its going to a mechanic later this week to recheck everything and make sure it really is the computer that went. hopefully i just messed something up and it isn't.
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Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Postwith key on engine off, are all three bars lit,center bar lit, all three flashing?
system will do a lot of trouble shooting for you if you let it.
by the fact manual works we just eliminated 99% of the ground path and 100% of the powersupply.
I believe the motors after 95 did not use the trim
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I belive 99 is right .
that system will mostlt test/troubleshoot itself.
ya just have to pay attention.
by the fact that it works manually, tells you the 12V feed(brown wire) and the ground path back to within inches of the ECU(blue wire) is good.
also tells us the pump is ok.
if the engine oil level is between the marks and you turn the key on and get 3 bars,tells me the remote tank switch OR harness is open and no automatic transfer can occur.
now we are down to SW2,SW3 or a restrited line or filter.
a restriction will allow the engine to consume oil faster than it can be transfered.
so how I would start, knowing the transfer pump works manually.
1 fill the engine tank with the manual switch so the level is between the marks.
visually inspect the remote tank for at least 1/2 full.
turn the key on and look at the tach
should see three solid,green lamp or far right bar.
if center bar is lit or yellow lamp then chase the remote switch(SWB) and wiring for opens.
then with the key still on, drain the engine tank until the alarm sounds and recap the drain.
transfer pump should turn on and run for 180 seconds and all bars flash.
to test power and ground to the engine tank switch you ask?
dont even need a meter.
start the engine,unplug the switch, should get an alarm.
if not you have a switch or harness issue,possibly an ECU but its very very very,did I mention VERY rare that an ecu fails.
now if you get an alarm while the engine is running and you unplugged it power and ground to the switch most likly works.
shut the engine off.
restart the engine after about 15 seconds.
now with the engine running on the engine harness side of the oil tank connector.
jump black to blue/green transfer pump should run.
now the only way to shut it off is jump black to blue/white or turn the key off.
see I just spent 15 min testing 90% of the precision blend transfer system and havent broken out a meter yet, no need to yet.
if you start the engine with the engine tank unplugged you get no alarm.
if the connector becomes unplugged while running you get an alarm.
ALWAYS make sure that connector is PLUGGED together before using the system after testing.
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thank you guys so much. it turns out it was the harness and remote sensor. had a buddy of mine bring over a good harness just to check it out he also had a sensor with him plugged them up and it started pumping!!!! and thank you rodbolt you have given me a wealth of knowledge for now and future.
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