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when set to normal its just that,when set to emergency it opens the orifice bypassing the electro thermal valve.
when in closed it closes off all enrichment.
that system uses a diaphram pulse operated pump to force gasoline into the intake behind the carbs.
as the wax pellet heats the rod extends closing off enrichment.
Rodbolt, I believe it should rotate counter clockwise to the normal spot, but was not sure the 2006 had the same system as my 1999.
I did not find anything in the owners manual for either motor about the normal position. Just the sticker on my 1999, so your input on his 2006 would help him
***!!! ok i tried replying earlier from my office computer but i see it did not go through. I guess this talk was to much for their puter system to handle!!!
No i did not know there were 3 positions, i do not have a sticker on my silencer. If looking at my photo, that is the position i normally run in, and that is what i am calling 6 and 3 o clock position. To start it up, every time, for the past 3-4 years i would lift the cowling flick the red switch to the 3 and 12 o clock position and fire her up. I would run her for a minute or two (warm up)at that position, then while still running lift up the cowling and flick the switch back to the 6 and 3 o clock position. I would run all day like that, starting and stopping. She would fire right up all day after that first initial crank.
Just so you know i bought this motor used from a guy that works on boats he showed me how to flip the switch up and down and said the electothermal switch was bad and to by pass it we just do what i above mentioned. Now i see these pictures rush home in the rain turn on the outside lights, run the water and flip the switch to the normal spot like in the pictures and she fires right up!!!!! My wife thinks I'm nuts but that's a story for another day. She ran fine!!! the rpms maybe a tad high but i didn't run her long enough to warm up all the way. So i will leave it in that position and tomorrow i will do the same thing and hope for the best.
BUT???? now why would i even need that switch, is that like the old pull choke, but we just calling it something different?
Thanks 99 for the pictures and Rodbolt for helping me out.
If the motor will not start because of passages plugging/ lack of fuel, the switch in the open position will act as the old choke and cause things to richen up to start motor and hopefully get you back to port and then fix the problem
At start up the timing advances and the prime start system enriches the fuel,
once the motor temperature rises far enough a temp switch sends a signal to CDI and the timing is set back to normal causing RPMs to drop to normal also.
When prime start system heats up enough it shuts off the extra fuel
if the needle were to stick in the up position,or the stator lighting coil fails, the engine would become to rich to run and possible engine damage due to lack of lubrication.
thats the part of manual close.
if the needle were to stick shut or the passage get plugged you can flip it to emergency and cold srart it.
its NOT a choke.
its an enrichment circuit.
Totally impressed! I came home and filled the water tank and fired it off on the second crank. She ran fast for a minute then slowly transformed over to normal running. She actually ran smoother than i have ever heard. Now this was just the barrel test, maybe with a little luck i can take her out this weekend, if the dam rain gives us a break.
Thanks Guys I really appreciate what yall did for me.
Hi guys i have just read all on the choke problems and mine is very similar.
I measured the voltage to the solenoid and it is 6volts. pulled the solenoid off to find the pin stuck up. Pulled it down and put solenoid back on. No flooding now.
Is the voltage correct to melt the wax and allow the pin to drop and what resets the pin to the up position once the motor has stopped and cooled. I have priced this part here in Australia $368 none in Australia and only a few ever used. Need help here please.
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