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**Ken** · 12-08-2005, 03:32 PM

stoney,
I have never done this, but I would check the 12 volt signal to the pump at the remote tank. Should be some kind of disconnect at the tank - use a voltmeter to see if 12 volts is getting to the pump when you energize the manual switch at the main tank - ignition "on", of course.
If you are getting 12 volts at the remote tank, then the pump/motor is bad, or, there should be a fuse for that circuit - check all fuses.
If you are not getting 12 volts at the remote tank, then go back to the manual switch and look for 12 volts there - could be a bad switch, connnection, or fuse - check fuses under the motor cowling - probably are at least two.
Good luck [img]smile.gif[/img] ,
Ken K

**boats.net** · 12-09-2005, 09:36 AM

Ken
The oil system uses a logical circuit on the electrical circuit, it has 12 volts to electric oil pump and the sensors, module and emergency switch completes ground circuit to run oil pump.The blue should have 12 volts and the brown wire will have ground when switch is engaged.
Stoney
If you have Yamaha gauges look at oil lights on tach, the pump will only pump if the full light is on. Check trim gauge is working properly, if gauge is reading full trim pump will not pump oil. Check electrical connections on wire harness from engine to boat oil tank, corroded connections are a common problem.

**Ken** · 12-09-2005, 10:14 AM

boats.net,
Thanks for the explanation [img]smile.gif[/img] .

stoney,
From what M43 has told us, you should be able to check the voltage at the pump. If all is working correctly up to the pump, then when you activate the manual switch, you should be able to measure 12 volts across the blue and brown wires. Or you could also disconnect the pump from the two wires and jumper 12 volts and ground directly to the pump (I would also use an inline fuse) to see if the pump is working.
Good luck [img]smile.gif[/img] ,
Ken K

**stoney** · 12-09-2005, 11:04 AM

to ken and boats.net.

thanks for the help ! here's a little more information. this 1994 motor is on my 1987 grady and four months ago i repowered with this used motor. the shop that hung the motor did not get the gauges to work, i have since purchased a new digital tach rigging kit that i have not installed yet. the motor was running fine for the last four months with oil transfering fine. what i will do is check all the connections and the screens on the main tank and auxilary tank, i will also check the voltage to the pump. thanks again for all the help..........

stoney

**boats.net** · 12-09-2005, 04:04 PM

Ok, the oil system will work ok without the gauges they just make troubleshooting a little easier. I did give some bad information on the trim sender. 1993 motors used the trim sender to stop oil transfer when tilted up but 1994 and newer motors have a mercury switch built into the ECU to stop oil transfer in up position so don't worry about the trim gauge it has no affect on oil injection.

**Hamfisted** · 12-09-2005, 04:14 PM

I actually had this problem on my old '92 motors on my Grady. The remote pump would not run at all. Turned out to be a corroded butt connector in the factory harness under the hood. The brown wire in the oil pump harness connects with a yellow "HOT w/ignition ON" wire inside the tape wrapped harness back by the brain box under the starboard cylinder head. Damndest thing I thought. I cut the wires out of the butt connector and respliced with a tinned heat shrink sealed butt connector and the problem was solved. That was two years ago and no other problems since. For some reason Yamaha didn't use tinned wiring in the harness in the earlier motors, this was suppose to be included in the SWS motors. So if you're not getting voltage down at the remote tank pump you may end up unwrapping the harness under the hood till you find the splice between the yellow and brown wire, check that connection. Good luck.

Mike ....... Miami, FL

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