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Command link fuel senor

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  • Command link fuel senor

    Hello all. Bought a bay boat with a 2006 Yamaha 90hp and the square Command Link square guages. I have the speed/fuel combo guage. Fixed my trim meter on my tach guage by looking hooking up the pink senor wire on the motor that never was hooked up. Now I am trying to get my fuel guage to work. It reads fuel all the time. The wiring diagram shows the pink and black wires coming off the back of the speed/fuel guage and running straight to the fuel sending senor on the tank. It does but both wires are spliced at the tank and run back under the deck to where I can't see. Any thoughts where these run to?

  • #2
    Hook the black wire to ground, the pink wire from the tank goes to the white wire on the back of the gauge. make sure the sending unit black wire is grounded as well.

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    • #3
      Yamaha Command Link Installation Guide

      According to the diagram on page 21 White on the back of guage goes to the negative GPS. I've got a single tank but every diagram on this shows pink coming from the back of guage goes to the tank??
      Last edited by wayne1967; 12-10-2012, 09:51 AM.

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      • #4
        nothing ??

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        • #5
          Did a little more reading. I've got a Moeller brand gauge type that said it was made for Master Craft boats and something about the ohms not working with all fuel gauges.

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          • #6
            You will need 30-230 ohm tank sender and connect to pink wire on Command Link gauge and black wire to ground.
            Regards
            Boats.net
            Yamaha Outboard Parts

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            • #7
              Thanks. Any thought on why the pink and black wire would be spliced into? I am thinking they might be running to power and ground somewhere in back underneath but the pink and black should be already hot and grounded coming off the wiring hub bar right?

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              • #8
                pink to the center post of a 30-250 OHM sender and black to the tank ground.
                NO other splices.
                typicall US market stuff is 30-250 OHM.

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                • #9
                  Ok thanks. Come to find out those spliced wires didn't run to anything. They just ran back about 6ft. Had connections on them just wasn't hooked up. Anyway how do you go about checking this type of sending unit? It doesn't sound like there is a float in the tube that slides. hooked up it doesn't change turning it upside down. Again thanks for the help on this.
                  Attached Files

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                  • #10
                    Forgot to say I cut the splice out, ran it straight to the gauge. Gauge on dash shows empty till you hook it up then it pegs out full.

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                    • #11
                      What are the ohm readings on sending unit?

                      If not in the range they have been telling you and will not change then I would think you need to find a different one that worked properly with the meter you have

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                      • #12
                        They are within range. Once I got it out I saw it was listed on top. 240/33

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                        • #13
                          Did you measure the ohms?
                          makes a difference if it is marked that it should work, but does not read correctly

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                          • #14
                            I think it is fried. I am getting like 319 ohms. I didn't know if it had a type of float in the tube or if the gas making contact with the outer and inner tubes did the registering.

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                            • #15
                              dunno but once you verify the sender responds you have to manually reset where the fuel level is.
                              otherwise the system cannot function correctly.

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