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Hi, I've recently bought a Scout 155 Dorado with a F60 on it. The lower end has seen some blunt force trauma and needs a new prop. The skeg is bent, and when I rotate the prop in neutral, there is a bit of runout, estimated at 0.060 inches. It rotates fine, no grinding or other noises, just 'wobbles'. Does this indicate a bent prop shaft, or can the propellor hub be bent? if it a shaft, how tough is it to replace? Any thoughts on a prop size/pitch? Anything I should know/check on this motor? i'm new to 4-strokes but hae run 2-stroke Mercs from 15 to 125 hp.
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You would need to replace prop shaft. The prop should have size stamped on it. If have a puller to remove carrier it's not hard to replace shaft. -
Appreciate the response. Can get a generic puller but expect there is more to this. Anyone know if instructions or video available on line?Comment
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Service manual would be best source of information.
http://www.yamahapubs.com/index.do?pg=search&category=4Comment
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I now have the LU off the motor, on the workbench. I've removed the prop, etc and the two bolts that hold the bearing carrier in place. Cannot move the bearing carrier easily. Haven't put a lot of force on it but... Diagram looks like it should pull out, just seal friction?
I got an estimate from a local shop to replace the prop shaft, $400 to $450 parts and labor(before taxes).
Any tricks to removing the carrier? Does this soind like a reasonable price?
ThanksComment
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i had a machine shop make an adapter for my slide hammer.
it screws onto the prop shft on one end and my hammer on the other.
then remove the shift shaft.
then heat the case and remove the carrier and shaft together.
tool cost me 30 bucks and a case.Comment
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OK, so I now have the Service Manual, and it basically says to remove the two bolts holding the bearing carrier to the Lower Unit and, using a Bearing Puller, to pull the Carrier out (with the Puller pushing on the end of the Prop Shaft). I've tried this and can't budge the Carrier. From the pictures in the manual, it doesn't appear there is anything holding the Carrier in, other than the bolts, and I expect its just seal friction resisting the Carriers removal. Is this correct? If so, what can I do to loosen the seals up? Like penetrating oil? A little heat, up to say 50C? Or is there another trick?
Someone suggested the Shift Rod needed to be removed but the Manual doesn't say so. In fact, I'm not sure the sShift Rod can be removed until the Carrier/Shaft is out of the way.
Thanks for your help on this. Oh, once I get the Shaft out, can I straighten it (have access to V Blocks, Hyd Press, and Dial Indicators) or will this weaken the shaft dangeriously? I figure no harm in trying unless it will potentially break in service. Thoughts on this?
Thansk again folks,Comment
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Did you get the Yamaha service manual for your motor or an aftermarket oneComment
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one more time.
the tool in the manual is typically a teat on a boar hog.
TEAT ON A BOAR.
remove the shift shaft,typically your going to destroy the plastic shift shaft seal carrier.
I usually drill two 1/8th holes and insert some #10 self tapping screws.
once the shift shaft is out of the way I install my tool on the propshaft threads,install my slide hammer in the other end.
using oxy/acetylyne I then heat the case,you may wish to remove the water inlet screens.
after heating the case on both sides to a depth from the aft to fwd of the rev gear I tap the carrier and shaft assy out together.
freshwater cases MAY actually come out with the yamaha tool.
a salt water case WONT.
thats why I had my tool made patterned off the left hand case v6/inline 4 yamaha tool.
the little wire tool from yamaha works ok at the school house but not in real life.Comment
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Tenfour, thanks. Yes, got the Factory Manual but it doesn't say anything about removing the shift rod. I'm not using the Yamaha puller, rather a three arm deal I scrounged, and made an adaptor to allow the jaws or arms to hook the bearing carrier (hooks behind two of the four webs that support the center of the bearing carrier, where the exhaust exits). Problem I'm having is not knowing how much force the assembly will take, or how much heat to apply. I was going to try a good heat gun rather than a torch, we'll see. Any other tips appreciated.
What about starightening the shaft?Comment
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there is a reason I dont like pulling on the casting.
you may find out why.
I have heard of prop shafts being straightend but its a two piece welded shaft and I dont try it myself.
thats why the oily side of the shaft will rust and the prop side doesnt.Comment
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Thabks RB. I've pulled as much as i dare. I've heated it to as hot as I dare. Still no sign of movement. May capitulate and take to a shop. I've been quoted $400 to $500 to replace it. How does this sound?Comment
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More LU questions
Hello Folks! So, I've had a boat shop replace the prop shaft on theis F60 and I've reinstalled everything on the motor. Its just coming into spring here so am able to do a few things on the boat.
When the console gear shift is in NEUTRAL, prop freewheeles in both directions. When in Forward or Reverse, it doesn't turn either way. One way would be against the compression of the motor, but I thought the prop would freewheel in the opposite direction from the gear shift position but I may be mistaken. Alll of this with the motor not running
Does it sound like all is OK? When in gear, prop won't rotate in either direction with the motor not running? Haven't tried it with the motor running yet.
Thanks for the past and pending help.Comment
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