alllogs

[alllogs1]

2002 Yamaha 150 ox66. Oil pump on remote tank will not fill automatically. When I jump it from the battery it fills the tank on the motor. I put a new wire harness but no power at end of harness at remote pump. I tested the continuity from the connection at CDI to where it connects to the new wire harness. blue wire is ok yellow is ok gray/red is ok. there is a black wire on each end but I don't know if is is the same wire of it they go to ground. Anyway there is no continuity on that wire. I don't want to replace the expensive CDI if it is not the problem. Thanks for any help

[rodbolt17]

then read somer of my posts on precision blend and post voltge readings not ok.
the system is so dirt simple yet its still the leading cause of master tech test failure.
ECU failures are very very rare.

[alllogs1]

where do I find these quots? thanks John

[rodbolt17]

use the tab on the upper right that says search.
search for keywords and use rodbolt17 as well.
like I said, its a very simple system that has 3 things happening all the time.
do you have the digital yamaha tach?

[alllogs1]

Pbs

still trying to solve the reason there is no power or ground at the end of the NEW wire harness where it plugs into the remote oil pump. I did not mention earlier that my emergency oil switch will not turn on the oil pump. How do I test the power coming out of the CDI? I tried a test light but got no light on the yellow wirec coming out of the cdi. Thanks for any help.

[rodbolt17]

testing the wrong spot.
NO repeat NO pump operating voltage comes FROM the ECU.
at key on the 12V feed comes from a splice about 6-8 inches aft of the 10 pin engine main.
turns to brown and heads to the remote tank.
from engine block to the brown wire should read 12V anytime the key is on.
blue wire is ground path,once almost to the ECU it splits,on leg to the ECU(auto matic) and the other to the manual switch then to a block ground.
first establish you have 12V at the brown lead at the pump.

[alllogs1]

on mine (2002 Yamaha 150 ox66) (SX150TXRA) coming out of the CDI and going to the wire harness that goes to the remote oil pump, a yellow wire goes to brown, black to black, light blue to darker blue and black with red stripe to black with red stripe. New wire harness. Their is no power at the end of the brown wire an no ground an the end of the blue wire. Thanks again. John

[99yam40]

As Rodbolt17 has said yellow is key on power, you need to trace to find out where it is loosing 12 +

[rodbolt17]

your WRONG.
plain and simple,WRONG.
12V feed for the remote tank pump comes from a splice in the wire harness about 6-8 inches AFT of the ten pin main harness.
only thing the ECU does is control the ground path,blue wire.
sooner you understand that the faster we can get on to troubleshooting.
on a working system you can take the ECU off the engine,lay it on the work bench, turn the key on and manually transfer oil.

at key on 12V is supplied to the yellow wire in the 10 pin harness from the keyswitch to the engine.
about 6-8 inches behind the ten pin main there are several splices,yellow,black,light blue and light green.
these supply power to various locations and ground paths for others.
on of the 12v feeds happens to be the remote tank.
first step, do I have 12V on the brown remote tank lead at key on power?
test from brown to engine block.
yellow key on 12V is FROM the keyswitch.
the keyswitch is fed by a 30 amp fused RED lead FROM the engine.
12V feed to power up the ECU is fed via the KEYSWITCH.
ECU wont function is 12V feed is lost.
only time the blue wire from the pump to ground is a complete circuit is either the manual fill switch is toggled or the ecu is trying to transfer.

[alllogs1]

As you an tell, I am a real novice at this. I have tried 3 Yamaha mechanics so far. The first one ,who is not a Mobil mechanic, had me replace the wire harness thar goes to the oil pump. When that didn't work he had me replace the sensors in both oil tanks and the small filter on the remote tank. Non of them solved the problem. The next mechanic brought a CDI of a working engin thied it it didn't work. He left never to return and never return phone calls. He was recomended as one of the best around. The next mechanic, found on craigs list, came, did some testing with a multi meter and said it was defintely the CDI and could get it for $1600. I just can't do that untill i'm sure. I am frustrated!!! I noticed when I was doing this that the person that had this boat and motor before me, I have had it for 5 years and it has been running dine, had run a fuse linked power wire from battery protector switch to the brown wire to the oil pump. I was very corroded at the fuse so I changed the wire and fuse to at least get it back the way it use to be. I still didn't work. I really appreciate all your help. Do you know anybody in the Daytona Beach, Fl that could find and fix the problem? Thanks again, John

[rodbolt17]

can you use a multi meter AND follow basic instructions?
the yamaha service manual has some very nice color coded wiring diagrams.
I do most my work as a contract mechanic.
if I say a part is bad and its not, I own it.
I own NO spare ECM's nor oil tank switchs nor ign coils.
been that way since 1995.
precision blend happens to be a dirt simple automatic oil transfer/injection setup that for some reason kills technicians.
its the most widly failed portion of the master tech exam.

[ausnoelm]

I reckon I have read this so often, that I could trouble shoot this system on my own, without a manual!!! follow what Rodbolt says to the letter, or search for one of his many answers to this problem.

[rodbolt17]

V6 2.6L precision blend can be shaped in 3 distinct catagories for the US market.
84-89- oil control module located under the engine oil tank on the port side.
contained a mercury switch to prevent oil transfer above a certain tilt limit.
90-95-oil control module moved inside the CDI assy, tilted oil transfer limit is now controled by the trim sender.
96 to present-oil control unit inside the CDI assy,must have a pulser coil input signal for normal automatic transfer to occur.
a common to ALL 2.6Lv6, the brown feed to the remote tank is taken frm a splice just aft of the 10 pin main.
ground is supplied via the oil control module depending on switch settings from the engine tank and conferming switch setting from the remote tank that there is in fact enough oil to transfer.
3 switchs in the engine tank,top is SW1 commands transfer pump off,oil control module releases the pump ground, pump quits.
SW2-center switch, commands pump on,oil control module applies pump ground. pump will now run until either commanded off by SW1 or the remote tank switch opens(SWB) or the battery dies.
SW3,bottom switch, second pump on command(in case SW2 failed) RPM reduction command,left hand bar,arrow or red lamp and audible warning.
SWB, remote tank switch, two functions.
when closed it illuminates the far right bar,arrow or green lamp, signals the oil control module the remote tank level is sufficient for automatic transfer.
when SWB is open(or the circuit is bad) the center bar,arrow or yellow lamp is on, automatic oil transfer is prohibited(stopped) no other indicates are associated with SWB.


on initial engine tank fill or anytime the tank is emptied for sewrvice.
at key on the oil control module looks at SW3 and SWB.
if SWB is open you get an audible and a far left tach indicate.
if SWB is closed you get all 3 oil indicates flashing,audible alarm AND the pump yurns on for 180 seconds.
one reason is when the engine was mounted new ya gotta fill the engine tank somehow.
2nd reason is SW3 closed and SWB closed simultaneously indicates a system malfunction.
could be a pinched oil line,a defective connection, bad oil transfer pump,restricted remote tank filter.
see how easy this system actually is?

[alllogs1]

Thank you soooo much rodbolt17 for all your help. I got it fixed. After one mechanic (one of the best in the area) giving me advice and having me replace several parts. Another Mobil mechanic brought over a good uses CDI and when that didn't work he never showed up again. Another Mobil mechanic who charged me $160. and said he guaranteed it was the CDI (I am glad I did not spend the $2000. to get one. I was in the wiring in the 10 pin harness. I should have only cost me $4.62. If I wasn't so thick headed I would have gotten it much sooner. Thanks again for all your expertise, time and patience. John

[rodbolt17]

3 so called mechanics and a bunch of wasted money and YOUR the thickheaded one?
precision blend is incredibly simple,mostly dead reliable and it kicks techs butts for some odd reason.
ya just have to remember there are at least 3 things going on at the same time.
if they dont it quits working.
if they think precision blend is complex,try the search/track processor on the CIWS.