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I have been experiencing a stalling issue on my t9.9elrs(1994). Many things have been tried(and replaced) to fix this and I finally gave up an took it to a tech. The motor was taken off and left with him. At the shop he was unable to get spark at all, said he checked outputs/inputs at various locations and said my c.d.i was bad. Before I took it in, I was always able to start the motor with little problem and had a good spark. The motor would run for me for as little as 5 min or as long as a couple of hours but still would eventually stall but would have a difficult time staying started. I asked if the c.d.i was checked and was told it could not be tested.(?) I was also told that they can act this way before they go bad.(?) He stated that it can get hot and cause these issues until it finally dies. My fear is it was not hooked up right/ or tested and I replace the c.d.i. unit and my problem is still there. Any help or suggestions?
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pick up a service manual for your motor and the proper test equipment to test the ignition system yourself if you do not trust the tech you took it to -
I have a manual......that's why I question the tech response and asked you guys. It looks like the resistance can be checked, and a tester is available which measures volts. I really prefer not to buy expensive testing equipment I may only use once.Comment
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google mechanic vs customer.Comment
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Do you expect someone on a web site to troubleshoot your motor without taking the proper readings?Originally posted by mycoho11 View PostComment
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My question has been misguided somehow. I just wanted to know how a c.d.i. goes bad...(symptoms, going bad after warm up, of does it just quit...etc)
And can they be tested and how. The only reason I ask this is that my manual says yes...but maybe the tech knows something I don't. This is not a issue of customer vs. mechanicComment
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the resistance tests in some manuals are worthless.
only good way to test is at the problem RPM and load.
then using a peak reading meter you check CDI output voltage.
CDI units on yamahas rarely fail.Comment
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Thanks for the reply Rodbolt, Last question...Since the mechanic couldn't get spark(or it running) is that why he could not test it?Comment
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To try to reply to your question about the CDI. Yes they go bad that way. They can either just quit or start quitting when they get warm. There is no bench test for the CDI. You need to test every thing else and if all is ok then you need to assume it's the CDI.
I had one give me intermittent problems. I would run the motor for about fif**** minutes to half an hour and it would start losing power and eventually have only idle. I came up with an on water test just to verify my suspision. I ran the motor for over an hour with the hood off, no problems. I put the hood on and five mnutes later the problem occurred.
I really hate changing a four hundred dollar part without being able to test it but bit the bullet and I was correct. The owner hasn't had a problem since.Comment
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which is why I usually lose money on the few CDI units I have replaced.
spent way to much time that cant be billed.
its also why I own 3 stevens CD-77's, one merc analog unit with peak reading function and 2 digital meters with DVA adapters.
that way I can monitor charge coil outputs,pulser coil outputs and cdi outputs simultaneously.
overkill but if I am wrong and the CDI does not fix the problem I pay for the CDI.
so far I own no spares.Comment
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I've been having intermittent problems for some time now. I've done all the diagnostics that I am capable of doing. I have a multi-meter and a DVA and everything has checked out in spec. The fuel system is clean as a whistle and functioning perfectly. Compression is good on all cylinders. Alarm system seems to be functioning properly. On a whim, and after reading your post I ran my engine (93' 70tlrr) until it started losing power, usually 5-10 minutes of run time. I removed the cowling and hit the throttle. It shot out of the water and quickly reached max rpm and ran like new...until I put the cowling back on. I'm at the point of unbolting the engine and marking the spot with my GPS as a reef. Could a new CDI fix this issue? As for testing while the problem is occurring, I'm not sure how to do that.Originally posted by marinermikes View PostComment
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and like I said, hook up the test equipment and go. if it fails and the readings remain good go hunt a different rabbit.Comment
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Can't say that I know eactly what CDI you have on that 93 70 HP. If it has the timing arm on the CDI that adds another issue. The CDI can still spark but the timing can become an issue. The timing is advanced by a reostat inside the CDI. If it becomes hot and expands it's possible for it to loose contact.Originally posted by grouper sandwich View Post
One thing you want to do for sure is make sure your not over heating and getting the CDI hot. After that put a timing light on it when it starts acting up to see if the timing is advancing properly.Comment
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It has the timing arm on it. I think that 92 was the first year of that feature. I don't think it's running hot because when it lost power I could place my hand on the top of the head and hold it there for a good 3-5 seconds, and I have wimpy office hands.
That said, I have NOT actually checked the temperature with any sort of thermometer or infrared device. And we've tried the timing light, but the second we take the cowling off it functions flawlessly. And when I say the instant, I literally cannot make it act up if the cowling is off even if I pull it off WHILE it's at the problem RPM. By the time the cowling hits the deck, the problem is corrected. I'm at my wits end here.
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are you sure you do not have an exhaust leak under the cowling which causes loss of O2?
Once you pull cowling it gets all the air it needs.
Just a thoughtComment
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