Impeller

[budleaver]

I HAD A SENIOR MOMENT AND FORGOT OT CONNECT MY FLUSH ATTACHMENT. The motor ran for maybe 20 sec. I want to inspect the impeller for damage. Is there anything special I need to know for accessing the impeller. I can't get a repair manual for 2012 models, but I am assuming a 2010 seloc repair manual would due.

[bumperfood]

If you just came back from the water, then there may still be a little water in the impeller body, hopefully enough to lubricate and prevent any extra wear on the impeller. Put the leg in a barrel full of water, make sure the water is as high as the cavitation plate. Start it up, lots of water from the telltale--you are good to go.

Your 2010 manual should be fine, you havent said the model of your outboard, but generally there is a series of nuts/bolts to remove, some by the cavitation plate and probably one under the sacrificial anode trim tab. Put the engine in neutral,before removing the leg and mark the position of the anode before removing it. You may also have to disconnect shift linkage (on smaller engines).Grease drive shaft splines before reinstalling.

[budleaver]

impeller

Bumpfood, Thanks for your answers to my questions. That is exactly my thinking, but since I can't get a repair manual until next month, I wanted to confirm my thioughts. I intially only wanted to run the motor out of fuel instead of leaving it set for a couple weeks. I don' like using a barrel because I would have to lift the motor or the barrel at some point. I have a flusher, just didn't hook it up and ran the motor for about 20 sec. I did run with flusher attached and my concern is the telltale is now only sputtering instead of nice steady stream. I called the local dealer and they want about $220. Out of sight.

Thanks

[bumperfood]

You haven't said your engine model, but from what I understand for some reason many models do not do well with the ear muff style of attachment. I use a plastic 45gal drum (cut in half) with a 1 inch drain hole about 2 inches above the bottom, which I plug with a rubber bung when flushing. I find that I can slip the barrel under the engine by lowering the front of the trailer with the wheeled crank. After flushing, I remove the bung to drain the water (about 5min.) and then lower the front of the trailer with the crank and remove the empty barrel. Very little lifting involved. I can do both my 60hp and 8hp kicker without lifting either. All you have to make sure of is that the water level in the barrel covers the cavitation plate, so your barrel might not need to be so tall.

[rodbolt17]

I am more worried about the housing melted,it goes first and with the same results.
still need a model number.

[phonfish]

If you are not getting the same stream of water out the pee hole, I would think the impellar is burnt. I burned my impellar and plastic housing on both yamaha f150s. I used the double sided muff instead of the single sided muff. The barrell works but I chose to ask the mechanic where I bought the boat just what they use. Single side muff is what they use and recommended.
As far as changing the impellar, look on The Hull Truth and Youtube for detailed photos and videos.