Need some help with gauges.

[jamesmc4]

I have a 2001 Pathfinder 1900T with a 115 Yamaha on it. The multifunction LCD gauges are not readable and I need to replace them.
I have done some research and come up with these.
6YR-W0035-E1-00 tach
6Y5-W0088-70-00 speed/fuel
or
Y-6Y5-8350T-82-00 tach
Y-6Y5-83570-S5-00 fuel/speed

I am curious witch ones I need and Will I need to rewire everything or are they plug and go?
If i can use either the top group or the bottom group is there a difference ?
These gauge's are not cheap and I would welcome any advice. Can they be repaired ?
Yamaha 115TLRZ

[boats.net]

You have three different gauges listed, a tach, a speedometer and a fuel management, if you need all three then go with
6YR-W0035-E1-00 Multifunction Tach Kit
6Y5-83570-S5-00 Multifunction Speedo
6Y5-W0088-53-00 Fuel Management Kit

The kits are cheaper than just the gauges.

[jamesmc4]

The boat only has 2 gauges.
One is tach /oil/ temp
The other is Fuel/speed/trip/battery
What is the difference between a kit and the other two?
I am new to owning a boat (bought it 5-4-12). The gauges work just can not read the LCD as they are sun bleached.
Will I need to rewire with a kit?

[boats.net]

Ok you don't need the fuel management kit then just
6YR-W0035-E1-00 Multifunction Tach Kit
6Y5-83570-S5-00 Multifunction Speedo
The tach kit will come with all the wiring, the speedo wont come with new speedo tubing, you wont have to use the new wiring if the old is in good shape.

[tsekc1950]

I just bought a boat with a 1994 130TXRS on it .........and unreadable multifunction gauges. I polished the gauge faces and they are very readable now. Probably took about an hour for both gauges.

It's quite a simple process of starting with 220 grit sandpaper and going through successively finer grits, then finishing off with a polish. I actually used a kit from Micro-Mesh which I've had for years. With this kit the final sand is with 8000 (yes, 8000) grit, although it can be done with considerably courser final grit. You can either do it wet or dry. Micro-Mesh kits are used for polishing all kinds of plastics, including aircraft windows.

I've got pictures I can send you if you want to see the results.

Terry

[keywest49]

Terry,

I would like to see a picture before and after the polish. I think you can email me the pics via my user ID.

Capt Jim

BTW, I ordered a MM kit from Skygeek.

[smann316]

I would love to see those pictures as well. I can see very lightly some numbers on my tach. It is still reading, but I can't see the numbers completly. I wonder if this cleaning would make a difference?

[tsekc1950]

I'll see if I can figure out how to post the pics on this thread so all can see.

smann316: I can almost guarantee you that it will make your gauges good. My tach was so bad that I couldn't read it. How well they turn out is a function of how much of the crazing you sand out of the surface. I only worked on both of mine for about an hour just to do a quick job and get the boat in the water. I have used MicroMesh on terribly scratch aircraft windows and they came out looking like new.

I'll try to post the pics later today.

Terry

[tsekc1950]

Here are the tach pics.

The first is before and doesn't really reflect how bad the face was. It was pretty much unreadable out in the light. The second is after a grit or two of sanding. Don't be alarmed after sanding with the first grit. The last pic is the finished face. What appears to be a streak is a reflection. You see some areas which seem to have spots. These are on the backside of the plexiglass. You would have to remove the plexiglass to deal with those, and I'm not sure that's possible.

Some notes:

I protected the bezel around the face with masking tape while sanding.

I wrapped the sandpaper around a small piece of wood (1/2" x 1" ?). That makes it easier to get close to the edges with even pressure, and keeps the surface flat rather than getting some waviness due to finger pressure.

I started with wet/dry 220 grit, then 320 grit, then 600 grit and then moved on to the Micro-Mesh supplied 2400 thru 8000 grits (if I had some grits between the 600 and 2400 I would have used them, although you can compensate with more sanding with the next finer grit). It doesn't really matter how course you start (within reason), as long as you move progressively to finer paper. I would probably have started with 150 or 180 if I had it. The courser you start with, the faster you get through the surface crazing which is causing most of the cloudiness on the plexiglass.

You can use the sandpaper wet or dry, however, dry allows you so see how you are progressing. The advantage to wet is it keeps the surface cool, however that shouldn't be a problem on this small of a piece.

Keep in mind that I only spent maybe 30 minutes on this. There is still some minute crazing along the edges that I didn't work out. I'll probably take care of that during the off season. Contact me with any questions.

Terry

[smann316]

That looks good! thanks for the info!!