Motor wouldn't crank,found dead cell in battery-replaced. Still wouldn't crank,found 20 amp fuse blown near coils-replaced. Started but running rough, changed plugs found top cylinder plug wet-including after new plug. swapped with middle plug to be sure-same condition on top cyl.Had to adjust idle to keep it operating. This was after motor ran great for a month out of storage, two week inactivity and this was result. Looking for suggestions. THANKS !!
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50TLR top cyl not firing-posibilities?
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Check with a spark tester or a inductive timing light to see if you are getting spark on all cylinders.
A DVA adapter and volt meter will show if it coil is getting proper voltage on each.
If spark and compression are good then look at cleaning carbs
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Thanks, fuel/water separator filter changed and new fuel added-slight improvement at that time. The top plug was still wet as though it wasn't firing,did not have tester with me to check coil operation. Do you know if a common problem would be the coil or the CDI? I don't have wiring diagram to decide why 20 amp fuse was blown. Do you have diagram or info?
Thanks.
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I have heard of people reversing battery leads when hooking up battery that blew fuse, but not much else. Short in wiring maybe.Last edited by 99yam40; 04-17-2017, 08:49 AM.
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Originally posted by 99yam40 View PostI have heard of people reversing battery leads when hooking up battery that blew fuse, but not much else. Short in wiring maybe.
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I do not know what other ones you are refering to as I only posted the one with the fuse ( start schematic) as that is all that the fuse feeds
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I see now that the views number has increased-I'm guessing now that it means the times it has been viewed. If you have a little time and inclination, I would appreciate a diagram for the CDI and coil schematic. Thank You Much!
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Not sure what year you TLR is, but must be 06 0r later.
my 99 40 may or may not be the same.
There is a charge coil and 3 pulsar coils that feed the CDI and then 3 outputs to the coils. You need a special volt meter or a DVA adapter and regular meter to take reading like the service manual says and compare to specs in manual.
Do like I said before, compression, spark, and timing. If all of that is good then work on the fuel/carbs
Service manual is worth the money if you plan on working on it yourself.
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