Ethanol concerns

[ccm71115]

Hi,
I have a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR that I have always tried to run non ethanol gas in. It has become pretty much impossible to find non ethanol gas in our area (north west Louisiana) and I am concerned about the damage ethanol can do to my engine. That being the case can you answer the following questions for me:


1. Are there parts that I should be replacing as preventive

maintenance on this model motor? I understand some fuel lines are
OK but other not. How can you tell which ones need to be replaced.



2. If so, which ones?


3. Are these parts do-it-yourself replacements?


Information you may need:
I always added sta-bil (blue), ring free and star-tron in all of my fuel.
The boat is not used for 3 to 4 months of the year.
Last year I drained the tank, as a precaution, but it caused my

fuel gauge sender unit to get stuck in the downward position. Had to
have it replaced so I really don't want to do that again, if at all possible.


I really appreciate your advice on this subject.


Charlie
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[boats.net]

Installed good fuel/water seperator filter in boat, use the ethanol gas treatment additives in gas. The Yamaha fuel hose has held up with ethanol ok but may have to check fuel hoses in boat. Fuel hoses and fuel filters will need to be check every 3 -6 months.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If you have the original lower, clear plastic Yamaha fuel filter (inside the cowling), it tends to swell with the use of ethonol. If it doesn't slide into the main plastic upper mount easily it needs replacing. It is now suppossed to be manufactured with a different plastic addressing the swelling, ( I heard the cost is about $130.00)

A product I've found and am currently using is K100. It negates the effects of ethonol and helps rid the fuel tank of water (it mixes the water with the fuel so it burns off). Not cheap but it works extremly well as its cleared any water droplets in my 1997 CC with the original 50 gallon built in fuel tank...

I do have a top of the line water seperator installed as well however I would still find small droplets inside where the FI pump is when draining... Since using the K100, nothing.... Again not cheap but saves removing the fuel tank to dry it, also cleans the fuel system, injectors, etc. I've used it on small engines (Mowers, weedeaters, etc). I've had to turn the idle down slightly after using the K100 on the small engines as it does clear out any varnish/crap, etc.... Amazing product IMHO..

K100 Fuel Treatment : Fuel Additive, Fuel Saver


Also, as stated above, outside fuel lines WILL break down. I had the short line from the transom mounted fuel filter to the Yamaha fuel filter literally have the inside of the line break down and come apart. Caught it before it made it to the Yamaha filter...

Picture posted is before the re-power..

[Tucker]

Townsends at 32oz to treat 80gal and at $24 for a 32 oz bottle that stuff is extremely expensive compared to a combined regiment of Ring Free and Startron. That mix is tried and proven, how much better is the K100? Is it talked about on any other owners forums?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Townsends at 32oz to treat 80gal and at $24 for a 32 oz bottle that stuff is extremely expensive compared to a combined regiment of Ring Free and Startron. That mix is tried and proven, how much better is the K100? Is it talked about on any other owners forums?

I discovered the product at my local motorcycle shop. They had various products mixed with 1 oz of fuel, 1 oz of water and 1 oz of other additives (Startron included). They saw the actual mixing of all the bottles themselves (I've known them for literally years, consider them my friends and trust them). All of the additives separated but the K100. You could see the additives separate between the water and the fuel. The containers are currently on thier counter for display(Superbikes and Ski, Ft Myers Florida).

Being my boat is a 1997 with a built in 50 gallon tank, I was finding some water droplets drain out where the FI pump resides on my F150. I do have an water/filter seperator on the transom. Moisture was not seen in the clear collector nor in the Yamaha filter assembly under the cowl, only in a small container I used to catch fuel coming from the FI pump.

Since seeing that, I have bought and used the K100 in my boat (and other vehicles). There is no more moisture collecting when I drain where the FI pump resides( forgot the name). The moisture is still going to be in there, its just now in suspension and is getting burned out with use.

As expensive as it is, IMHO, it is well worth the investment VS pulling my center console, floor, draining the gas tank with 30 gallons in it, etc...

I've been riding/wrenching on motorcycles since I was 15, 53 now and boating/rigging/wrenching since 1979 (moving to Florida) so I am familiar around engines.... BTW (not bragging) I do work on motorcycles/mowers/weedeaters on the side and have a small client base from word of mouth...

[throrope]

Per Yamaha's owner's manual our '04 90TLRD was built to accommodate 10% ethanol and I expect your '06 was similarly configured.

We purchased our boat used in '10 as originally equipped with very little use. Like other's have posted, ethanol attacked the plastic pickup, fuel hoses and primer bulb, crapped up the carbs and sequentially gave us learning experiences. The discounted OEM gaskets available here put us back on track.

If your fuel supply is more than four years old, I suggest a complete replacement with materials listed for low permeability and install a 10 micron water separating filter as close to your outboard as practical. That will also put the much more expensive on engine fuel filter/screen as the last line of defense that will rarely if ever need replacement instead of on point. I found Sierra products very reasonable and dirt doesn't know who made the filter. All this is cheaper than a failed trip, easily available online and can be done yourself in less time than a trip to the shop. Even though they didn't look in trouble, I also replaced the small diameter internal fuel lines with an aftermarket product but retained the original spring clamps (OEM hose a bit costly IMHO). I did notice a bit of cracking on the ends of the originals, but don't recall any change in engine performance after the job.

I also suggest getting Yamaha's SERVICE manual available through their website. Even if you don't plan to service yourself, the reference quickly pays for itself in avoided repair costs. I'm not sure about your's, the manual for ours shows most repairs and near every adjustment can be made with simple hand tools. Incidentally, my manual recommends cleaning the on engine fuel screen in lieu of replacement.

As far as storage, the more I read, the more I hear the preference for filling the tank and treating the fuel instead of draining.

IMHO for the recreational boater, these outboards will end their life to damage and neglect far sooner than due to wear. On the Outer Banks near everyone runs Yamaha because they don't like working on weekends. Beyond that, what you're doing now should keep you in good shape.