Yamaha idle setting for 2004 f150

[pathfinder101]

Can someone help me with my idle setting. Currently my idle is set at 600 rpm, my problem is that when I shift into forwar or reverse it stalls out.. It seems like its set very low. I think it should be set at 700-750 rpm... Much help would be well appreciated... Also, I flush the motor with the water hose adapter and was running the motor, I now know not to do this because the owners manual tells me not to have the motor running in this setup.. I didn't hear the overheating alarm, I hope I didn't damage the motor?

Thanks,
Jeff

[99yam40]

If the water pump does not get the proper water for lubrication it will damage the impeller.
Do a search on the F150 stalling problem, Rodbolt17 has some good info on what he did to solve the problem on his and others. He is a Yamaha master tech

Here is the one I was thinking about
http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...0-th15195.html

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Can someone help me with my idle setting. Currently my idle is set at 600 rpm, my problem is that when I shift into forwar or reverse it stalls out.. It seems like its set very low. I think it should be set at 700-750 rpm... Much help would be well appreciated... Also, I flush the motor with the water hose adapter and was running the motor, I now know not to do this because the owners manual tells me not to have the motor running in this setup.. I didn't hear the overheating alarm, I hope I didn't damage the motor?

Thanks,
Jeff

I fine tuned my idle (05 F150) by adjusting the throttle stop screw (think its a torx screw) located on the starboard side (next to the throttle bodies on a vertical plate). Just turn it clockwise very slightly to adjust the idle up..

As for flushing, I use both the hose connector at the upper port side of the engine (not running) and also rabbit ears on the lower unit running (at separate times)..

To keep the speedometer hole from clogging up with salt water, I put a short piece of hose with a sharp "V" cut in it over the pick up hole and force fresh water in and flush the orifices.. Up stream, approx 4' from the speedometer, I have a tire valve stem plumbed (using a plastic "T") into the plastic speedometer line and use a small 12 volt air compressor to blow the line completly dry (from the top, pushing the water out the pick up). The speedometer works much better now and works down to 4 MPH.....

I have the old style rabbit ears (water enters thru one side, made of heavy steel and rubber cups). I tightened the tension (for a tight seal) lightly by putting them in a vise and tightening. They are tight enough that a little water or lubricant helps slide the ears over the lower unit inlet...

I have very good water pressure and don't have any problems getting the engine to pump water out of the visual hole at the powerhead immediatly. Don't rev it alot as the water pressure at the rabbit ears won't be able to keep up...