Transom Clamp Handle Replacement

[chukarcommando]

Hi,

I broke one of the plastic handles that you tighten the transom clamps down with. I ordered/revieved the new one plus the little attachment screw. I thought you just unscrewed the old pin and put the new pin/handle on. In looking at it, this does not appear to be threaded at all. Do you have to drill out the old one, then put the new one on and somehow spread/flattend the other straight end? Thanks.....

[boats.net]

Not sure which model you have but if you are talking about installing the transom pad on end of clamp bolt then it needs to be bradded on end of bolt. Not too tight to allow it it to swivel.

[BlueMoonF4]

Transom screw bolt replacement bradding

I need to replace my transom clamp bolts. Both the clamp plates and the handles appear to require bradding as mentioned in the old thread above. i would appreciate and guidance available on tools and techniques to carryout the bradding.

Thank you in advance.

[boscoe99]

What is the complete model identity?

[BlueMoonF4]

Its a 2012 4HP. According to the Yamaha catalog, the clamp screw bolt assembly is the same for several years on either side of the model year. Both the pin that holds the handle on the bolt and the bolt where the clamp attaches have small dimpled depressions to allow for bradding. However, the pin is very small, while the bolt is large, indicating that two separate tools are required to complete the assembly.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Here's a parts fisch for one 4HP (YOUR complete model # would help ALOT):

2006 and Later F4LMHA Yamaha Outboard BRACKET Diagram and Parts

In this parts fisch the entire screw/clamp including the round part comes apart. So you don't have to remove the engine.

In any event, should that pin need to flattened over and it had to be on the engine, simply support the pin and flatten with a hammer and possibly a 3/8 extension.

Being it's such a small engine, I'd set the pin so its supported on a say a work bench and hammer away..

If the round end (part #3) needs bradding and its already dimpled, simply use a small impact "tool" (maybe a ground down-blunt end, med sized nail?) and tap it in just till it doesn't come off. Once its installed, it's not going anywhere...

It shouldn't take massive hammering.

[boscoe99]

I am not familiar with the term "bradding" with respect to joining parts together.

I suspect that when done at the factory the small dimple is used so that a rotational riveting machine can be used to expand the end of the pin or the threaded rod so that they are held in place.

You will be doing what some refer to as a field repair. With respect to the pin I would use a center punch. Install the handle onto the screw and then install the pin through the holes. Put one end of the pin on an anvil (or something similar) and with the center punch in the dimpled section strike the center punch with a hammer to expand the dimple. Turn the pin over and then strike the dimple on the other side. It there are two dimples that is, I don't know.

Now thread the handle and screw into the clamp bracket.

With respect to the clamp pad you are not going to have access to strike the dimple when the threaded section is screwed into the clamp bracket. Maybe fabricate a short length of rod that can be inserted between the dimpled area and the back of the bracket. Slip the clamp over the end of the thread. Install the rod. Turn the handle so that the dimpled area is squeezed by the threaded rod. Maybe, just maybe, the dimple can be expanded enough to hold the clamp onto the thread. Capiche?

Is the motor removed and replaced on the boat frequently or is the motor installed and left in place? If the latter you can just slip the clamp pad onto the screw and hold the clamp pad in place while the motor is being installed. Once the motor is clamped in place the pad is going to remain in place.

Now, tell us why you are having to replace the clamp screw, handle and pad? This is not normal.

[99yam40]

I would not think a 2012 motor would need that unless someone did some bad things to it

[BlueMoonF4]

Here's the back story: This F4 is an auxillary on a sailboat I purchased. The previous owner had an outboard stolen off the boat, so he installed a West Marine High-Security stainless bar lock on the Yamaha, but neglected to give me the keys.

I need to remove the engine for servicing. I contacted WM customer support regarding the lock and they directed me to the manufacturer who said it was not possible to obtain a replacement key.

The lock is much stronger than the screws it is designed to protect, so I plan to cut the screws. Unfortunately, the screw clamp handles are held captive by the lock- thus the need to replace the entire assembly.

Regarding the specific model number of the engine, I don't have it and I'm not at the boat. When I was last there I used the model number to look up the parts at Yamaha. Its a F4MSH (4hp manual start, short shaft) and the part number for the screw is 6E0-43116-01-00. The screw and its associated parts were used on a many other year models

Thank you all for the suggestions. I've ordered the parts and will let you know how it goes.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If you didn't already order the parts, I'm sure that lock assembly would come off with a cut off wheel which would cut thru that SS...

It wouldn't be hard to defeat it...Cover everything up around the work area as sparks would be flying!

[cpostis]

Here's the back story: This F4 is an auxillary on a sailboat I purchased. The previous owner had an outboard stolen off the boat, so he installed a West Marine High-Security stainless bar lock on the Yamaha, but neglected to give me the keys.

I need to remove the engine for servicing. I contacted WM customer support regarding the lock and they directed me to the manufacturer who said it was not possible to obtain a replacement key.

The lock is much stronger than the screws it is designed to protect, so I plan to cut the screws. Unfortunately, the screw clamp handles are held captive by the lock- thus the need to replace the entire assembly.

Regarding the specific model number of the engine, I don't have it and I'm not at the boat. When I was last there I used the model number to look up the parts at Yamaha. Its a F4MSH (4hp manual start, short shaft) and the part number for the screw is 6E0-43116-01-00. The screw and its associated parts were used on a many other year models

Thank you all for the suggestions. I've ordered the parts and will let you know how it goes.

Have you thought of contacting a mobile locksmith to either make a key or drill the lock cylinder? If a round key may be difficult, but not impossible. He may be even able to install a new cylinder so you can still use the lock?
This would be my choice!

Is this the (or something like it) your lock?
WEST MARINE High-Security Outboard Bar Lock | West Marine
Looks like you can cut it, even though may be a little difficult. Maybe sawzall, or even a cutting torch.

Is this like your motor?

[IMG]Y-F4LMHA_2 by Charles Postis, on Flickr[/IMG]


If you do go the replacement screw/handle/pad route after you cut the screws and removed the motor, on the pad portion I don't see why you will not have the clearance to "Brad" the screw end at the pad after installed. Personally, after all is installed, I would simply use a good sharp chisel and put four cuts in the screw end outer edges, just enough to spread the screw material and hold the pad on. A few mild taps on each cut should be sufficient.

Just saw Townsends post. Cut off wheel is good idea as well!

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Actually, once the large Yamaha adjustable bolts are cut, IF your not replacing the lock assembly, simply grind those bolts with "TWO Flats"opposite each other. So you can put a wrench on the two flat's..

You can still tighten down the engine with an adjustable wrench and it wouldn't be quite as easy for a tool-less thief...

Just curious, are those two Yamaha main bolts STAINLESS???

If so, you'll need a cut off wheel / tool anyway.

I like the idea of a locksmith too. Much easier and try and save that $100 lock assembly

[cpostis]

Actually, once the large Yamaha adjustable bolts are cut, IF your not replacing the lock assembly, simply grind those bolts with "TWO Flats"opposite each other. So you can put a wrench on the two flat's..

You can still tighten down the engine with an adjustable wrench and it wouldn't be quite as easy for a tool-less thief...

Just curious, are those two Yamaha main bolts STAINLESS???

If so, you'll need a cut off wheel / tool anyway.

I like the idea of a locksmith too. Much easier and try and save that $100 lock assembly

One more thing (if you go locksmith route), some lock cylinders have codes stamped where you can see them, a locksmith might have the matching key on a big ring he carries with him. If you can see the code give it to the locksmith and he can see if he has it before he comes out. An experienced locksmith can probably pick it just as fast.

[boscoe99]

Second the cut off wheel being used on the locking device.

[BlueMoonF4]

I thought about cutting or drilling the lock. I have a diamond cut-off wheel on my Dewalt 18v grinder. The problem with the project is that the engine is mounted on a narrow transom overhanging the water where the boat sits in a slip. The key required is circular, cannot be reproduced and the cylinder has additional anti-drill protection (as per Marintech support). And access is very poor from underneath the lock. So I ruled out the locksmith because of cost of the project.

The bolts protrude from the lock in such a way that cutting them would be much easier than the lock itself. The latter is two layers of thick 316 stainless, while the clamp screws do not appear to be stainless and represent a very small fraction of the total cut required for the lock.

I also considered my own experience/skill cutting stainless. I'd be working very close to the transom and would likely break my cut-off wheel and/or gouge my gelcoat on the boat: both costly compared to replacing the Yamaha screws. So my thinking is to cut the screws where they protrude from the lock with my Sawzall (once I've supported the engine weight in a sling). Its two straight cuts facing down over the bracket and the lock helps keep the blade from accidentally slipping and doing damage to the boat.