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F100 Tilt Dust Seal / Oring Replacement

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  • F100 Tilt Dust Seal / Oring Replacement

    Hello,

    I've found I'm leaking a slight amount of oil from my tilt cylinder (I can see it coming out of from between the dust seal and rod when the rod is cycled around the fully extended point). Its not major but I imagine it will get worse. I should also note that my rod itself looks to be in good condition, no pitting or scratches and that my tilt still has full motion and doesn't sag during when left unattended. I've been browsing the usual forums and think I have an idea about which parts are required and the actual steps to perform but I'm hoping this post will clear things up further.

    It sounds like I can remove inner tilt rod assembly from the cylinder if the motor is tilted all the way up without removing the motor, pump housing and cylinder assembly. Tilt up the motor, engage the tilt lock, pop the upper rod pin out and then break the outer cylinder end cap loose with the spanner wrench, swing the tilt assembly away from the transom then remove the tilt rod assembly. Can someone confirm if this is possible, and if so if the motor needs to be tilted further up than the tilt lock (i.e. sling or jack) for removal clearance?

    After the tilt rod assembly is removed I'm a bit fuzzy. The manual I have makes it seem like the entire thing must be disassembled to get at the offending parts (items 9, 11, & 12? here 2000 F100TLRY Yamaha Outboard POWER TRIM & TILT ASSEMBLY 1 Diagram and Parts)
    Is this actually required to address the leak I have or is there some way to avoid small springs, balls, seals and pistons everywhere? I sure wish the top rod bushing was removable (maybe it is?)

    Last comment is do any items in addition to one pc of item 9, 11 and 12 need to be replaced to address my problem or as a result of the disassembly? Perhaps items 10 and a second pc of both item 11 & 12?

    If I get some help and mange to pull this off I'll be happy to make a step by step with pictures post in hopes of helping others in the future.

    Cheers,

    Colin

  • #2
    pull the ENTIRE unit off and do this on the bench.
    its really the only way to insure the 6 balls on the outer piston go back in place correctly.
    its about the most difficult unit ever made to deal with.

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    • #3
      Thanks for the reply.

      The whole damn unit has to come off and apart then to replace the parts that are most likely to go. Can anyone advise if the parts I've suggested are the ones I need to replace? Also perhaps someone has a link to a good post regarding the tear down and re-assembly of this cylinder? Or perhaps they can go over the steps briefly?

      What a pain in the ass - its a wonder why they didn't make the upper rod bushing removable..... Then I would be able to just replace everything from the top.

      Cheers,

      Colin

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      • #4
        bump.

        No one can confirm the parts I need to replace and/or point me to some rough instructions?

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        • #5
          Considering all the parts involved, down time, and potential expense, I would invest in the shop manual. Can't agree more about a removable clevis. Most commercia/industriall hydraulic cyls have screw on clevis, cost saving thing I guess.
          1999 Grady Sailfish SX225 OX66
          1998 Grady Tigercat S200 lightening strike (totalled)

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          • #6
            Maybe just live with a bit of fluid loss, top it off with ATF every now and then. Sounds like the repair is too much time, trouble, expense to be worth it.

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