Trim/Tilt Problem Bad relays?

[ontherox]

Hi, I have a 2001 Yamaha 2-stroke 115HP outboard. The trim started acting funning at the end of last year. It would go up but not down, then was intermittent. The override switch worked fine. This year it won’t go up or down, only works with the override. I checked the switch on the drive handle and it was OK. I checked the relays (two round ones mounted on side of engine). With the battery disconnected I get 15 ohms across each, with the battery connected I get a full connection. Should the relay be fully open, not 15 ohms? Do I have two bad relays?

[rodbolt17]

you have a lack of understanding what a two position relay does or why.
there is no over ride switch.
describe what your calling an over ride.
do you understand how to reverse the direction on a two wire permmanent magnent electric motor ?

[ontherox]

Override

Hi, the “override” I’m talking about is the auxiliary PTT switch on the side of the motor. It works fine.
The relays are mounted with the black bolt on the top, with three other posts. The top black post is jumpered to the #4 post (1-4 going around clockwise with the black post #1). I read 12V across the #2 and #3 posts. With the battery attached the #4 and #2 posts are shorted. With the positive terminal of the battery disconnected I get 15 ohms across #4 and #2. If that helps.
Thanks.

[rodbolt17]

if the pan relay control switch operates the relays and the trim just fine, why not test the control box switch.
at rest both the blue and the green trim motor wires are grounded.
when the light blue control wire from the pan switch or the control box switch is taken positive the up relay moves and applies 12V to the blue trim tor wire and the ground path is throgh the green trim motor wire through the relay to ground.
when the light green trim control wire is taken positive the green trim motor wire is taken positive and the ground return is through the trim motor blue wire through the relay to ground.
thats how polarity switch and thus whether the motor runs clockwise or counter clock wise.

so logically thinkg, why are you bothering with a working portion and not the non functioning portion?

[ontherox]

LOL. I like to check the functional parts because I get better results!
Anyway, from what you say I can assume that if the Aux PTT switch works the relays are OK? I’m not sure what you mean by the control box switch. Thanks again.

[rodbolt17]

cause typically there are two switchs in parralell that control the trim relays.
one at the engine lower cowl typically called the pan switch and the other is typically located on the throttle handle but if jury rigged may have a switch on the console.
you have been barking up the wrong tree and the coon dang near is gonna get away.

[ontherox]

OK we’re gonna git that coon! The switch down on the lower cowl works fine. The switch on the handle does not. However, I checked the switch on the handle and it works fine, at least out to the wire plug going back to the motor. I think I’ll have to disconnect the wires on the relay that go to handle switch and see if it works back to there. I guess there may be a problem with that wire bundle. Unfortunately I can’t check it again until next Saturday. Hopefully that dang coon is slow.

[99yam40]

Sounds like you have the coon trap set and baited, probably catch him next weekend

[rodbolt17]

make sure the switch at the control end has 12V on the red wire.
the light blue and light green from the control to the engine are in the 10 pin main ign harness.

[ontherox]

Good point. Thanks.

[Txgrizzly]

try checking the connectors for the main wiring harness cable that goes from your motor to your console, i just had a problem similar to this and found a very corroded connector on the cable that goes from the motor to the switch and T&T control on the throttle...

[ontherox]

Thanks Tx, I LOVE wireing problems. It's like tring to find a ghost.
I hope I catch a nice day next week. I’m definitely going to have a few cold ones ready (and some aspirin).

[ontherox]

A partial victory: I checked the wires up at the control handle and I got a clean 12V from the red to green but no volts from red to blue. I checked at the engine connector and got the same. The wires then run in a big bundle wrapped in tape, the jumpers to the cowl switch are in there too. I didn’t want to start tearing apart the bundle, I thought I’d do more damage than good, so I decided to run a new wire from the control handle all the way back to the relays and make the parallel jumps there. That actually worked great. I could activate the tilt up and down with the cowl switch and by touching the wires together up at the handle. I then re-attached to the handle switch wires and the down worked fine but the up didn’t work (that’s the opposite of the original problem. The up was inconsistent before though.) I double checked the handle switch and got a good on-off continuity for both the up and down switch. We are now heading to the “That’s impossible” area, and I agree. I took the handle apart and pulled out the switch. It’s potted and looks like it may be solid state. If that’s true all bets are off. I’m going to now replace that switch. 703-82563-01-00 TRIM & TILT SWITCH, $50 Grrrr. If it works it’s worth it. Those dang coons are tricky

[99yam40]

The red is 12 v+.
Should be hot 12v when measured to ground
Measuring to the up and down wires to the relays (blue and green)just shows if you have the negative path back to the battery through the wires and the relays themselves.
I do not see how replacing the switch will fix that

[ontherox]

I agree. Need some help. I touch the red to the blue the motor goes up I touch the red the green the motor goes down. I hook up the switch on the handle and only one works. Makes no sense to me.

GO BRUINS!!