F150 Balancer Assembly

[BaileysBoat]

Hi All. I'm about to order a replacement balancer assembly for my 2006 F150 serial number 63P-1042463. This engine has just 400 hours fresh water use but recently has started whining/whirring at idle when the engine is cold. Stethoscope puts the noise from the balancer, so I'm doing it now before it fails totally and takes out the powerhead.

Couple of questions. The Yamaha website gives me an updated balancer part number 63P-11500-03-00. This website gives me the old part number 63P-11500-01-00, presumably with the problem gear set. I don't want to end up with the problem gears again.

Also, my Yamaha manual specifies a "sealer" be applied to the crank cover seals and another product be applied to the balancer mating surface, but the manual is unclear. I'm assuming RTV black where the balancer mounts to the block and Hi-tack for the seals but could use some help getting the right product.

Finally, I would like to change the Balancer assembly without pulling the flywheel. Just call me lazy and the belt is pefect. I have gone through the manual several times and I think I would be OK if I set the crank at TDC with the cam marks indexed. This should be the correct position to index with the balancer assembly markings?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Bill

[rodbolt17]

close, no ceegar.
the -03 part is what your going to get even if you order the -01.
the -03 part is redesigned.
when you line up the cam marks and the TDC mark then take a flashlight, look under the flywheel.
on the aft slightly stbd side you will see a plate with a triangle mark.
that mark MUST line up with the casting tab on the block reguardless of what the timing tab says.
then make sure the balancer timing marks line up correctly.
best thing to do with a tube of silly cone is walk to the bow and see how far you can chunk it.
\use the yamaha sealent,lock tite( i think its 517 ) or OMC/BRP gel seal.
silly cone is just that, silly.
what your looking for is an anerobic gel sealent.
there is a tech bulliten to replace the defective balancer without pulling the flywheel.

[seahorse5]

the balancer replacement instructions (shortcut) are on page 2-6 of the 2008 Yamaha Marine Technical Guide - #LIT-18865-01-08

[BaileysBoat]

Thanks Guys.

Throwing the RTV over the bow. Going to use Permatex anaerobic flange sealant on the machined surfaces.

Regarding Locktite 517, looks like that is for pipe threads. Would locktite 97 or 9 be better?

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...t_sealants.htm

Rod, what I'm hearing from you is that in a perfect world the TDC mark lined up at the timing pointer should be correct but you have to verify the casting tab.

Seahorse, thanks for the bulletin info. I will see if I can pry this out of my local dealer.

I will keep you all posted as to how this turns out.

Thanks,

Bill

[rodbolt17]

I use the 518,however the 510 or the 515 would most likly work as well.
I dont use the primer, it kicks off the gel faster than I can work and if your not careful it will act as a shim.
I use the permatex gasket remover and carb cleaner to remove the old sealent and insure the surface is clean and oil free.

[BaileysBoat]

Thanks Rodbolt, 518 with no primer on the balancer flange.

Now, is permatex 97 ok for the rubber crank cover seals at the top of the balancer assembly, or do you recommend something else?

Thanks.

[rodbolt17]

same stuff
it will work simply dry.

[BaileysBoat]

I have 20 hours on the F150 since the balancer was replaced and all is well. Not a difficult job at all. The new balancer assembly has more clearance between the gears and an oil spray tower is incorporated into the upper bearing.

I was able to replace the assembly without removing the flywheel. I was unable to get copy of the Yamaha bulletin for this shortcut so I ligned up the reference marks very carefully before pulling the old balancer. A note of caution, at TDC the balancer marks do not line up. There is another reference mark on the flywheel that corresponds with the balancer marks.

[rodbolt17]

I have replaced over 50 balancer assys on the F150 including my personal F150.
trust me if the engine is at TDC the balancer marks line up.
when dissasembling its a 50/50 shot that the marks are lined up cause the balancer rotates at twice crankshaft speed.
but on reassembly they need to line up.

[BaileysBoat]

Rodbolt, thanks for following up.

I ended up pulling the 1/2 moon seals and rotated the crank until the balancer marks on the old assembly lined up. At this point I pulled the old balancer and installed the new component exactly the same way. Noise is gone, no vibration and leak free.

I realize the balancer assembly rotates at 2 times crank speed, but at no point during multiple rotations of the crank did the balancer marks on the old part line up. They always lined up when a factory reference mark (set about 90 degrees fom the flywheel timing marks/numbers) indexed with the timing pointer. I confirmed the timing pointer was accurate with the casting tab as you posted earlier.

Without pulling the flywheel I could not verify that they crankshaft keyway was indexed as the service manual said. Question, is the crankshaft keyway machined at TDC?..

Sure would be nice if I could come up with the Yamaha's balancer shortcut instructions.

[BaileysBoat]

Thanks to all who helped. I have obtained a copy of Yamaha's Tech Tip covering the F150 balancer inspection/replacement without removing the flywheel. In brief:

Remove the flywheel cover, air silencer, wiring harness from clip, fuel filter bolts, front hanger bracket, 10 pin engine to boat harness, 3 electrical panel bolts. Use a small screwdriver to remove the starboard 1/2 moon plug from on top of the balancer.

Rotate the flywheel clockwise until the 20 BTDC mark lines up with the center of the starter bendix shaft, than verify that the drilled mark on the end the balancer shaft is aligned with the index mark on the balancer casting.

Hope this helps.

Bill

[Mrplasma]

do you have any pictures of Balancer assy, and instructions on how to change this?
I have a friend who just bought a 2004 F150 and it has a whining sound.

[rodbolt17]

ALWAYS ALWAYS did I mention ALWAYS use the casting mark and the triangle tab as a reference.
DO NOT rely on the timing tab unless you have verified its accuracy with a dial indicator.
whole job takes about 1.5 hours.

[just add water]

So I am finding this very interesting. I started my F150 balancer replacement and with the engine at TDC verified by the triangle and I mark on the block as rodbolt17 states, cam marks aligned and the flywheel pointer is within a couple of thou of TDC on the flywheel, my balancer alignment marks are not even close! So I turned the flywheel (clockwise of course) till the balancer marks aligned and it works out just as the Yamaha service letter states.

Hope you can read this,



Page 2,




Now after reading my Yamaha service manual, the balancer installation is with the flywheel removed along with the timing belt drive socket, they want the machined keyway in the crank shaft to be aligned with the cylinder block and crank case mating surfaces. This to me does not indicate TDC!

Iam I missing something here?

F150 Maintenance manual,






Now, this isn't meant to say anyone is wrong its just that I am trying to figure out why the difference in procedures to prevent any problems down the road.

Greg

[rodbolt17]

cause your splattergunning.
the service manual entry you posted is the reassembly instructions IF the engine were completely torn down not just replacing a defective balancer assy.
note the date on the tech bulliten.
I replaced my first balancer in 06 and I have NEVER EVER removed the flywheel.
its not difficult, its a simple machine with a set of gears.
keyway F is where the tab with the triangle mark is going to be.