'96 Pro V 150

[bryan c]

Hey guys, I'm new to the forum. Seems to be very informative.

I'm considering buying a '96 Pro V 150 and have a couple of general questions. Is there anything in particular I should pay attention to or check out? Were these good, reliable outboards? Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Bryan

[jb123]

theyre awesome, check compression and lower unit fluid for any water intrusion, then youre good to go.

[bryan c]

Thanks, what psi should the cranking compression be?

[Ken]

bryan,
Do a "test drive" on that 150 if you can - also, check the prop shaft to make sure it is not bent.
Not sure what the compression should be - best to get yourself a Yamaha shop manual for that particular model - it will pay for itself.
Good luck,
Ken K

[jb123]

i would say 110-125 lbs and be sure that the cylinders dont vary more than 5-10 lbs vertically.

[bryan c]

Thanks for the replies, I'm going to test drive the boat (20' Duracraft) this weekend.

[bryan c]

Thanks again for the replies. I ended up buying the boat after looking at it again and test driving it. I wasn't able to do a compression check, but everything else checked out to my satisfaction. This is my first Yamaha and first outboard bigger than 5O hp. A couple of questions. What was the difference between the Pro V 150 and the other 150s for 1996? What, if anything, should I do to get the engine ready for fairly heavy use this fall (oil or gas additives, flushing, plugs, filters, etc.)? Also, I need to get a new prop. What size would you recommend? The boat is a 20' X 84" (beam) Dura Craft aluminum bass boat. It's a shallow V, non-pad hull. The hull probably weighs between 1100 and 1400 lbs. On the test drive, the boat topped out at 52 mph @ 5300 rpm. I'm not sure of the size of the current prop.

Thanks,

Bryan

[Hamfisted]

The ProV's were only available in 20" shaft length, not 25" like the others. The timing cam is slightly more aggressive on the ProV also. So make sure your boat requires a 20" shaft motor and not a 25". You probably won't have to do anything to it except maybe clean the carbs out if it's been sitting a long time. Go to www.YamahaPubs.com and order yourself a service manual and owners manual for the motor. Good luck.


Mike

[Ken]

Bryan,
If the motor has not been de-carbed in last three years, I would do it. Scroll down thru the posts where I detail the procedure.
If plugs have not been changed in last year, do it. Check lower unit oil for signs of water intrusion - if oil has not been changed in last year, do it.
Check local filter and remote filter if have one - clean per shop manual.
If water pump has not been replaced in last three years, it's about time - but if you see no signs of overheating, then you can put off until winter season.
I would run a can of Seafoam (16 oz to 16 gallons) in fuel tank every other or third tank to keep carbon buildup at bay, and to keep carbs clean. This is after you do a shock treatment with Seafoam.
Don't let your motor set up for weeks at a time w/o running - preferably run it at least once a week, even if its just with the earmuffs and garden hose.
I believe the max rpm range for your outboard is 4500-5500 rpm - sounds like you are already there with the prop you have - this is what you want at WOT and trimmed out.
And like Mike says - get yourself a Yamaha shop manual (I would get an owners manual also) for that particular model Yammie.
Good luck,
Ken K

[bryan c]

Thanks guys. I ordered the shop manual. I'm going to do the Sea Foam treatment. It's recommended on another forum I frequent as well(www.bobistheoilguy.com). Excellent site for internal combustion engine lubrication information. Fuel Power is also highly regarded on that forum. I've been using it in my vehicles with good results. Anyway, the bad news is that my prop shaft is bent slightly. I didn't notice it when spinning the prop by hand, but when I removed the prop and spun the shaft I could see it wobble slightly. I put a dial indicator on it and it's out about .005" at the thrust washer. The shaft end play and side play seem fine. I'll probably let it ride and rebuild the lower unit next year.

[Ken]

bryan,
Are you applying the dial indicator to the shoulder of the thrust washer, or to the prop shaft where the thrust washer rides?
Even if the shaft is .005 out of round, I don't think that would be enough to cause any damage or effect performance. Just check the lower unit often for water intrusion.
Just went thru a lower unit rebuild on my fishing buddie's 95 C115 - or I should say I watched my trusted marine mechanic do it - I had never done one, and I'm glad I had an expert do it for that first one. I think I could do one now that I've seen it done. When you get ready to pull that prop shaft, get in touch with me and I will tell you all the special tools and tricks you are going to need.
Good luck,
Ken K

[bryan c]

Thanks Ken. I was applying the dial indicator to the prop shaft right in front of the thrust washer. I think your right, .005" is probably not enough to warrant a rebuild, although it may cause a rebuild to be needed sooner than if it was straight. I've also gotten some advise from a locally trusted outboard mechanic on how to "straighten" it with a hammer. I think I'm just going to let it ride though. I'll definately check the fluid for water intrusion everytime I pull it out of the water. I'll let you know when/if I decide to do it.