Testing 0X66 Stator

[rodbolt17]

only way is with the yamaha diagnostic test lamp.
if ign timing wont go to 3* ATDC then there is an issue somewhere.
when in warm up mode you will get a code 33, this will shift to a code 1 if all is normal when the ECT tells the ECU its above 113*F.
the key is, does the ign timing revert to base idle timing of about 3* ATDC or does base idle timing remain at 7* BTDC?
if the ECU is unhappy with any of its inputs the base timig is set at 7*BTDC and idle speed remains high.
the O2 sensor is an exception.
certain failures will fix fuel rich at idle and top speed may or may not be reached.
the pulser coil assy on that engine is physically mounted for about 7*BTDC ign timing, the ECU can modify this from about 7* ATDC to about 22*BTDC depending on sensor inputs.
thats how if the ECU sees a fault it can revert base timing to 7*BTDC,depending on what input failed will determine whether or not the ECU will advance base timing past 7*BTDC.
if you understand what this ECU is trying to do the engine will almost trouble shoot itself.

[chbaker3]

I have a diagnostic lamp already. when I have a chance to run it, I will hook it up.

[rodbolt17]

just remember, with the lamp installed NO automatic oil transfer can occur.
all other alarms and functions will work normally and manual transfer is allowed.

[chbaker3]

When I ran the codes it gave me a code of 42. Any ideas?

[rodbolt17]

codes 33 and 35 to 44 are micro processor codes.
no other information is avalible.

[chbaker3]

OK, so today I installed another computer from another engine. Got the same thing. Any ideas. Saturday I am going to ohm out the harness to see if I can find anything there.

[chbaker3]

OK, so I fixed the code, just a loose ground. Now I have no codes but still a problem. Right now, while on the hose if I run pass 4000, it dies. No bog or anything. Just dies. Any Ideas?

[chbaker3]

One thing I forgot was that the engine was firing at 30 ATDC at 2000. Is this correct?

[rodbolt17]

no its not correct.
it should idle about 3* ATDC and advance to about 18* BTDC at or near wot.
4000 RPM with no load may not be wise.
whats the fuel rail pressure when it dies??

[chbaker3]

OK, i know its been a few weeks since I commented on this. Today i bypassed the low pressure pumps completly and it did the same thing. I put the timing light on the motor and noticed it was firing at 25 BTDC. I know this is way wrong. I adjusted the TPS and it timed to what it should have been but was then running too lean ~.2 volts. At this point the TPS was at about .22 volts. If I adjust it up any it jumps back to the 25 BTDC. Any ideas? i have tried a second computer and it does the same.

Could it be the trigger?

[rodbolt17]

the ign timing is attempting to make the engine target speed match the sensors ECU inputs.
trigger is working as is the TPS.

the TPS gives the ECU information on throttle angle(air flow) and the pulser coils give the ECU information on RPM.
this determines basic fuel curve.
thats why correct proppiing on the OX66 is so critical.
the ECU looks at the TPS,CTS,IAT and map.
then it looks at RPM.
then it adjusts fuel volume(injector pulse width) and ign timming trying to hit the ECU internal map for what the RPM should be for the sensors inputs.

[chbaker3]

I didn't think the OX66 had a MAP on it. If it does where is it and how can I test it? the same for the IAP.

I do know the TPS and CTS have tested out as working correctly.

[99yam40]

Are you sure you have a Yamaha service manual for that motor?
Sure does not sound like it or you are not reading it.

Should give step by step procedures for testing and all the specs

[chbaker3]

That is why I am having problems. I have tested everything and everything is testing correctly.

[99yam40]

you never said what the fuel pressures were normally and when problems occur
and how you are running this thing while testing at 2000-3000 RPM.
Are you in the water, in gear,in neutral, on muffs? with a test wheel or without prop on

How did you bypass the low press fuel pumps?

What is the timing at idle 3* ATDC or 7* BTDC before warm up and after

Your testing showed very low and very high charge coil reading and even some that looked good.
Just what are the voltages now, cranking and at the different RPMs listed in the specs
what are the other testing results now not a month ago as you have been swapping parts and modifying wires.
I would start at the begining and go through the systems step by step testing like the manual says, not skipping any step