2003 F115 stalling/skipping and would not shut off once

[Sparkieboat]

well I am willing to invest some money into the proper tools..but if by very expensive you mean $1K or more, I just simply cannot do that right now. I will do the other test that I can do without it for now and see what I can find. The TPS is way low and needs to be adjusted properly. I printed off the instructions from my manual on how to set it. it said I need a test harness, but I assume I can just push my probes into the existing harness connector and test the voltage, I have done this on many other types of voltage checks. I will set TPS and will not use the computer but will use a digital volt meter. then I will check the 5v reference on each sensor. why would I measure the temp on top of the ISC?? maybe to see if it is not working properly and overloading the circuit?? Can I test the orange 5 volt reference with just the key on, or does motor have to be running??

If the manometer is to be used to set the throttle valve synchronization ,my manual shows it being done with a single vacuum gauge, which is way cheap. I am sure the 4 way thing is way better but if this will get the job done and save me big money...Remember I will be selling this motor as fast as I can once it is fixed.

[boatmangc]

well I am willing to invest some money into the proper tools..but if by very expensive you mean $1K or more, I just simply cannot do that right now. I will do the other test that I can do without it for now and see what I can find. The TPS is way low and needs to be adjusted properly. I printed off the instructions from my manual on how to set it. it said I need a test harness, but I assume I can just push my probes into the existing harness connector and test the voltage, I have done this on many other types of voltage checks. I will set TPS and will not use the computer but will use a digital volt meter. then I will check the 5v reference on each sensor. why would I measure the temp on top of the ISC?? maybe to see if it is not working properly and overloading the circuit?? Can I test the orange 5 volt reference with just the key on, or does motor have to be running??

If the manometer is to be used to set the throttle valve synchronization ,my manual shows it being done with a single vacuum gauge, which is way cheap. I am sure the 4 way thing is way better but if this will get the job done and save me big money...Remember I will be selling this motor as fast as I can once it is fixed.

You aren't going to get it done with a single gauge.
I have an old school 4 gauge analog setup I will loan you, if you want to pay the shipping to and from PM me.
It also looks like your thermostat is out of whack. You are going to need to replace it before you use the manometer. The ECU will adjust itself to run in a cold situation and while it won't really have an affect on the throttle plate adjustments it will have an affect on the overall idle quality.

When you posted the running data on your motor how long had it run before you took those readings?

[rodbolt17]

the ISC can and does stick machanically.
when it does the ECU doesnt know it.
the ECU will keep toggling the ground to make it idle.
but now it wont move.
just after that the ISC overheats and the ECU overcurrents,heats up, and bad things happen.
test the 5V ref FIRST.
I test mine with the engine running.
and your way under propped.
way to many hours above 6000 RPM.
true, the manual picture is misleading, but it takes a 4 channel type manometer to correctly set the shutters.
the tech mate is about 550 dollars.

[Sparkieboat]

thanks a lot for all of your help, it is great to be finally getting somewhere with this motor.
I took several readings and I think the one I posted was after about 5 minuets of run time.
I know the motor needs new prop, but since I will be selling it I will let the new owner prop it for his boat. Remember I just purchased this boat in December and have less than 5 hours on it myself.
I may take you up on the tool loan Boatmangc, that is very generous of you to offer it. I will get as far as I can first. I will be out of the country from march 21-28th so it will have to wait until I return. If I can buy four vacuum gauges and make that rig work, I could do that for under $100, unless it requires a special type gauge.
I can hear the ISC closing when the motor shuts down, so I thought that was a sign that it is working ok. but I will test 5v reference with engine running and I will see if ISC is hot to the touch. I am also going to adjust TPS to .733
should I go ahead and clear all trouble codes???
Thanks again for your valuable help.

[Sparkieboat]

Ok, I set the Throttle Valve opening as close to 0.0 as I could get it. (0.8)
I had to turn the TPS as far as I could, in the clock wise direction, to get it to 7.22 (on the DVM)..It read 7.33 on the computer. is it expected to have to turn TPS to this extent? the 5v reference read 4.94 on every sensor with engine running. (whoever invented concave torx screws needs to be shot on sight. just another stupid tool I have to buy. WHY WHY WHY)

here is the reading after idling for about 5 minuets. I may or may not get to take it for a test run tomorrow. If not it will have to wait until end of the month.

ISC seemed to be working fine..any other way to test it other than feeling it to see if it is over heating???

Save date March 18 2011
ECM No.: 68V8591A11

Diagnosis
Code Item Result Condition
13 Pulser coil Normal
15 Water temp sensor Normal
18 Throttle position sensor Normal
19 Battery voltage Normal
23 Intake temp sensor Normal
28 Shift position switch Normal
29 Intake press sensor Normal
37 Intake air passage Normal
44 Engine stop lanyard switch Off
49 Over cooling Normal

Diagnosis Record
Total hours of operation 336
Code Item Occurred
Diagnosis Record is unavailable.

Engine Monitor
Monitor Item Result Unit
Engine speed 914 r/min
Intake pressure 47.22 kPa
Intake pressure 13.98 inHg
Atmospheric pressure 1006.8 hPa
Atmospheric pressure 29.8 inHg
Ignition timing ATDC 2 deg
Battery voltage (12-16) 13.5 V
TPS voltage (0.5-4.5) 0.733 V
Throttle valve opening (0-90) 0.8 deg
ISC valve opening 30 %
Fuel injection duration 2.19 ms
Water temperature (below 90) 36.5 °C
Water temperature (below 194) 97.7 °F
Intake temperature (below 70) 32.9 °C
Intake temperature (below 158) 91.1 °F
Engine stop lanyard switch OFF
Shift position switch ON
Oil press switch OFF
Dual engine system switch OFF

Data Logger[Engine operating hours according to engine speed]
Engine speed Time[h]
- 1000 r/min 195.6
1000 - 2000 r/min 46.9
2000 - 3000 r/min 3.4
3000 - 4000 r/min 8
4000 - 5000 r/min 31.6
5000 - 6000 r/min 45.6
6000 - 7000 r/min 4.9
Engine hours 336

Data Logger[Data comparison graph]
Engine speed[r/min] Battery voltage (12-16)[V] TPS voltage (0.5-4.5)[V] Water temperature (below 90)[°C] Intake pressure[kPa] Oil press switch[0:OFF 1:ON]
850 13.48 0.57 28.8 48.9 0
900 13.7 0.57 30 46.9 0
950 13.7 0.57 32 45.9 0
900 13.77 0.57 33.7 47.9 0
900 13.62 0.57 34.1 45.4 0
1000 13.77 0.57 34.6 46.4 0
950 13.48 0.57 35 45.9 0
900 13.26 0.74 29.6 46.4 0
950 13.55 0.74 30.4 43.9 0
850 13.48 0.72 32.9 46.9 0
850 13.48 0.74 33.7 43.9 0
900 13.55 0.72 34.1 44.4 0
1050 13.84 0.72 36 48.9 0

[rodbolt17]

your ISC value is way low, need to adjust the shutters and the TPS for an ISC of about 45% and a TPS of about .733.
and your still running to cold and the idle speed is to high.

[Sparkieboat]

I am not sure how to do that adjustment. do I adjust the throttle linkage?? I will remove and clean the t-stats, maybe they or one is stuck open. It seemed to be warming up, only idled for about 5 minuets.
should the throttle valve opening be as close to 0 as possible when setting TPS??

[99yam40]

Sparkie
Would be a good idea to test the stats while they are out to see what temp they are operating at just to be sure.

Rodbolt,
I wonder if this setting procedure is the same you were talking about on the thread Stalling Yamaha F150 http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/52333-post8.html

[99yam40]

Sparkie
Would be a good idea to test the stats while they are out to see what temp they are operating at just to be sure.

Rodbolt,
I wonder if the setting procedure would be the same you were talking about on the thread Stalling Yamaha F150?

"what we are going to do is actually mis adjust the TPS.
insure all shutters are fully closed, then using the top screw slightly open all 4 shutters,then set the TPS voltage.
what you want is the ISC to close down to about 40% instead of its typical 60-65%."

[Sparkieboat]

I will test the thermostats. there is no way I will get a test run done today.
How do I make the ISC change %value?? that is what I need to know.
It says in 99s post above to use the top screw to slightly open all 4 shutters. so if I do that then the throttle valve opening would increase correct?? should I just ignore the throttle valve opening %??
or is there some linkage adjustments that need to be done??
Thanks Sparkie

[rodbolt17]

the F115 and the F150 are COMPLEATLY different animals.
DO NOT try to fix one using the other.
you will need an altenator.

[99yam40]

the F115 and the F150 are COMPLEATLY different animals.
DO NOT try to fix one using the other.
you will need an altenator.

I kind of figured it was not the same as you said something like that before, but I saw your reply "need to adjust the shutters and the TPS for an ISC of about 45% and a TPS of about .733." and I had to ask, as it sounded similar.
I have a very good used alternator just sitting here waiting for something to go wrong with my truck or boat motor, but I will sell it for the right price

[Sparkieboat]

ok I got my fat fingers down around the ISC motor today rather than just touching the top. Rod is correct in being suspect of it, it is defiantly very hot to the touch after running for just a few minuets, and stayed hot for some time after shutting engine off. I assume this means I need to get a new one.

This is the part # I came up with 68V-1312A-00-00 VALVE, CONTROL
$326 bucks..*** that seems way over priced.
Any way to repair this one or is that a futile effort??
If I need to order it let me know, I will order it tonight and it will be in when I return from my trip.
Thanks for all the valuable help.

[rodbolt17]

and now for the really bad news.
typically the ISC overcurrents the ECU, taking that out as well.
however once you get the shutters and the TPS reset correctly use the dynamic ISC function test.
try the test 5 times in a row and recheck ISC temp.
if the engine stalls when running the test the ECU possibly is toast.
another test is simply listen for the ISC to chatter at engine shutdown.
that chatter is the valve resetting to 100% in anticipation of the next start cycle.

[boatmangc]

I have been changing an increased amount of ISCs lately, and yes, they are overpriced.