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**99yam40** · 08-01-2010, 04:08 PM

My thoughts are you need to pull and clean carbs

**Reel Insane** · 08-01-2010, 07:05 PM

Thank you for your response. I will take it back to the dealer tomorrow.

Thanks again

**Gradyrod** · 10-06-2010, 03:38 PM

how to pull and clean carb?

I have the same problem with my 25hp 2 stroke (1999). Now, how do I go about removing the carbs and how to clean them? Do I soak the carb assembly in solvent? or do I need to wire brush them or what?

Thanks!

Gradyrod

**Reel Insane** · 10-07-2010, 07:17 PM

When I removed my carburetors for cleaning I realized I might as well rebuild them. I am a diesel mechanic and am not a fan of doing the job halfway. After all I use my engine in saltwater and want to make it back home at the end of the day. This was my first carburetor rebuild and I was a bit nervous.

The first thing I did was purchase a repair manual for my particular engine. This will give you all the torque specifications and repair instructions (repair guidelines more like it). I have both the Yamaha service manual (which is good if you are a trained tech) and went to Seloc online and purchased a $35.00 for a three year subscription. The three year subscription allows you to print exploded views and gives repair instructions (the pictures are outdated but works). There are also web sites that give you small videos that help such as this one YouTube - Yamaha Carb Cleaning Part 1. This site (Boate.net) has been the best tool so far and has answered 90 percent of my questions.

Second make sure that you have quality tools to do the job. Some of the screws are in very tight and need a tool that will not flex while in use. I did purchase a carburetor soak in a one gallon container that has a dip basket and I think it was $20.00 or less. Make sure that you remove all plastic and rubber parts before you soak your carbs. I also find that spraying your carb and letting sit for a little while and wiping out the varnish works well too.

DO NOT USE A WIRE BRUSH !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Also inspect the needles and seats very well as even the smallest scratch or defect can cause extreme problems.

The main thing is be patient and take your time. Keep all your parts neat and clean. I also find taking pictures as I go is a great idea and allows you to refer back if you are unsure of how it came apart. Technology is great and I use it all the time for projects like this.

One more thing when you remove the air/fuel mixture screws and idle screws count how many turns it took to remove. This will get you close when you put everything back together. After all it ran good at those settings once before.

If you have any questions just ask.

**Gradyrod** · 10-12-2010, 03:24 PM

How to remove carbs/ linkage adjustment

Thanks for cleaning info and link to some good videos! I think I've got the cleaning end down. Only problem that I still have is how to disassemble the 2 carbs which are on a manifold and have linkage joining them. Is there a way to disassemble this whole thing so that it is not so difficult to get back to the way it was before removal? Or does everything have to be re setup after cleaning and if so how does one go about that?? When the floats are removed to clean the float bowls is there any adjustments that need to be made when reassembling? or just put it back the same?

Thanks so much-- looking forward to getting this engine to idle well again the way it used to!!

Gradyrod

**Reel Insane** · 10-13-2010, 05:55 PM

When I cleaned my carburetors I took pictures as I went along to ease the installation process. I removed all three carburetors from the manifold, started the disassembly process, labeled the carburetors, and kept all parts in their separate containers. Since you have only two carburetors on your engine you may be able to remove one at a time keeping the linkage on the engine as much as possible.

Remember, your engine ran good at one point at the settings at which your carbs are already set at.

When you start removing the air/fuel mixture screws out of the carb do yourself a favor. Count how many turns the screw takes to bottom out and write this number down. When you reinstall the air/fuel mixture screws run them in until they bottom out and turn outward the number of turns you have previously written down. This will get you close if not dead on where you want to be. Also do not over tighten the screw when you run them in, just run them in until it bumps the bottom. Over tightening will damage the screw.

Your floats do have a height specification but I am not for sure what it is. Some people just make sure the float is level with the bowl. I am not one of those people. I like specifications because they are there for a reason. A repair manual for your engine will give you all the specs that you need for your carb settings. It will also give step by step instructions and pictures to ease your nerves a little. It helped me and I believe it cost me 35 dollars for a three year subscription. You can also print from the website as well. It is worth the investment and peace of mind.

Seloc Online Home Page

Good luck and let me know if you need any help.

**Gradyrod** · 10-14-2010, 04:31 PM

I have the Yamaha shop manual

I bought a manual when I bought the motor; however, it is pertty lousy and covers 2 different motors and horsepowers (20 and 25hp).

Thanks for that great explanation about screwing the jets all the way down and counting turns. I have heard of that but now I think I understand exactly how to do it. Only question remaining is the linkage. I did read again what it said in the manual and I think I've got it! I figure if I screw up and it's not running just right I can always bring it in to the dealer and he can set it up for me in the spring. Meanwhile, i will have winterized myself and cleaned out the carbs myself, probably saving a good amount of $$.

Gradyrod

**Reel Insane** · 10-16-2010, 10:14 PM

Once you start disassembling the carbs. You will find out that the linkage is pretty straight forward. I was also nervous about the linkage. Then I found out I was nervous for no reason. You will definitely save yourself money on every project that you do yourself. Even if you have to take your boat in to have your carbs. synced and set. The only difference is you may only have to pay an hour of labor verses 8 hours of labor. I hope your project goes well.

**Gradyrod** · 10-25-2010, 04:49 PM

almost there!

ok guys-- I got the carbs detached and I see that the linkage is not a big deal like you guys told me! The only thing I'm not sure of now is how to get the choke disconnected from the linkage. There are these strange (to me) plastic holders that keep the linkage captive. Can anyone tell me how to snap off these plastic keepers so as not to break them. I didn't want to force them.

I agree it's always better to do as much as you can yourself and take it in to the pros for the final setup if need be! Why pay someone to remove and clean out the carbs?

Now, is there a particular rebuild kit I need to buy, or do I just buy individual gaskets, jets, etc. And, speaking of jets, should I just clean them or replace them? Motor is 1999.

Thanks so much for the encouragement!!

Gradyrod

**junaidi** · 10-26-2010, 08:39 AM

Understood your problem and I experienced this prob and finally its solved.Its have simple solution as long you dont have electrical prob or internal prob.Dont have to remove all the carb first.Just remove only all the mixture needle srew but remember the turn and then blow in it with a high compress air and use some cleaning solvent.For better result after blowing diassemble all the carb and service it as accordingly.Hope this can help u

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